Features of terminology
Zippers come in non-hidden and concealed varieties. In the first case, it runs through the center of the product, but is covered with a fabric strip. Due to this, it is not visually visible. This rectangular piece is called a codpiece or valance. There is also another strip called the slope. It covers the clasp at the bottom and thereby prevents fabric from getting caught in the teeth and pinching the skin.
A hidden zipper is sewn into the side seam area. In this case, only the dog remains in the visibility zone.
The codpiece also comes in two types. There are one-piece and set-in types. When choosing the first option, it is laid down when designing the pattern. For this purpose, a rectangular piece is added along the central seam at the front of the products. Its length is 19 cm and its width is 5 cm. These parameters are standard. A set-in codpiece is a separate piece of material that is sewn directly to the fly itself.
When figuring out how to sew a zipper into trousers with such a detail as a codpiece, you should take into account who the clothing is intended for. In women's models it is sewn on the right, and in men's models on the left.
Secret
Unhidden
One-piece
Set-in codpiece
How to sew a zipper into pants. Codpiece, slope, valance
If you plan to sew trousers not with elastic or elastic materials, but trousers with a belt, initially cut so that its volume is close to your waist circumference, then you will definitely need knowledge of how to process the fastener.
Fastenings can be either buttons, zippers or hidden zippers. You can learn how to sew a hidden zipper in a detailed master class by clicking on the link How to smoothly sew in a hidden zipper , and here we will talk about a non-hidden zipper, its location on clothes is noticeable, but it itself is hidden from prying eyes behind cloth. The fabric that hides the zipper underneath is called a valance . Also, you may have heard such concepts in sewing as codpiece and slope, they also relate to our topic, and I will explain what they are. And so, codpiece , what is it in our case: this is a piece of clothing, which is a strip of fabric covering a slit, on top of which is located, if there is a zipper in the slit, closing the zipper. A flap is a strip of fabric located under the zipper; during operation of the product, it prevents underwear or a person’s body from getting caught between the teeth when the zipper is closed. Thus, in this article I propose to consider the concepts “zipper with valance” and “zipper with codpiece and slope” as equivalent.
The valance (codpiece) can be one-piece, laid when creating a trouser pattern (a rectangle 5 cm wide and 19 cm long is attached to the line of the middle seam of the front half - this is the standard size of the codpiece, the lower outer corner of the rectangle is rounded). And stitched. This article will discuss the processing of a one-piece codpiece in women's trousers, however, the difference between how to sew a zipper into women's trousers and how to sew a zipper into men's trousers is only in which side to sew the codpiece on. In men's trousers, the codpiece is processed on the left half, in women's classic-style trousers - on the right.
What will you need at work?
To sew on the fastener you should prepare:
- sewing machine;
- directly the clasp itself;
- a rectangular piece of fabric that will be used to create a slope;
- clothes with a codpiece;
- iron;
- centimeter or regular ruler;
- iron;
- threads and needles;
- pins;
- soap or chalk;
- scissors.
Many needlewomen perform such actions using a thimble. If the matter is quite dense, it should also be included in the list.
How to sew a zipper into pants
Sewing clothes yourself is a chance to create a unique item, in a single copy and only with your own parameters. Clothing tailored to a person's measurements always fits perfectly and emphasizes the best features of the figure.
Every novice seamstress sooner or later faces the question: “How to sew a zipper into trousers?” At first glance, this is a complex process that frightens with the unknown. But once you deal with this issue, sewing in fasteners will no longer be a problem. The main thing is not to be afraid and practice more.
What to do if the trousers are cut without fastening
Sometimes pants are initially cut in a way that does not include a zipper. It is quite possible to sew it into such clothes. For this purpose, you must adhere to these instructions.
The central seam on the front part, where the fastener will be sewn, is ripped open.
The pants are laid out on a horizontal surface. A zipper is laid out on them and the places where it is planned to be placed are marked.
When using this method, the presence of a valance is not implied. For this reason, you should make an indent of about two centimeters from the right mark and cut off the excess material.
Now the pants are turned inside out. The part to be sewn is secured to them using pins.
The first side is stitched. It is extremely important to make sure that nothing interferes with the process of fastening and unfastening this element. For this purpose, the slider should be moved up and down several times.
The second ribbon is attached to the second part of the pants.
After this, you just need to gouge the seams and iron the clothes thoroughly.
The process of sewing in a zipper does not cause any particular difficulties. You can cope with this task even without sewing skills. To do this, you just need to study the step-by-step master class and strictly follow the instructions. If you don’t deviate from it and be attentive, the result will definitely please you. In the future, you will no longer have to turn to an experienced seamstress to repair your clothes. Such actions can be easily performed at home. Thanks to this, you will be able to save your family budget. In addition, in the future it will be much easier to master other work options. Moreover, zippers are provided in a huge number of wardrobe items.
How to properly sew a zipper into trousers, master class (instructions with pictures)
Materials and tools:
- trousers with a one-piece valance (codpiece) and finished side, step and middle seams before the start of the codpiece (see photo below);
- a rectangle of fabric for the hem (I take the fabric from which the trousers were cut, as it is thin and pleasant to the body);
- thread, scissors, tailor's pins, ruler, tailor's chalk
Processing the zipper, codpiece and slope:
Step 1. Cut out the slope. On the fabric we draw a rectangle with width = valance width x 2 = 10 cm, height = valance length = 19 cm. We round the bottom corners.
Cut out:
Fold in half , inside out:
Overcast the edge:
Step 2. On the front side of the trousers, mark the middle seam line:
For WOMEN'S TROUSERS, on the LEFT side, draw a line parallel to the middle seam and passing from it at a distance of 1 cm closer to the outside of the valance.
Fold it inside out and baste it .
Step 3 . We place a zipper under the resulting allowance so that the teeth are visible. Secure with tailor's pins.
Step 4. Place the edge under the zipper so that the outer long edges of the edge and the zipper coincide, and the upper edge of the edge coincides with the waistline of the trousers. Let's baste.
View from the back side:
Grinding
Step 5. Fold the halves of the trousers face to face so that the middle seam lines match. We sew the right side of the zipper tape to the right valance , ONLY TO THE VALVE, NOT TO THE PANTS. (I remind you that here we are looking at how to sew a zipper into women's trousers; if you need to sew a zipper into men's trousers, then vice versa.)
From the front side, processing the codpiece at this step looks like this:
The white lines are the lines of the middle seam of the trousers.
Step 6. From the wrong side, sew the outer edges of the valance pieces
Step 7. Processing of the codpiece continues. Mark a line on the front side.
Step 8. We lay a finishing stitch according to the line . We secure the bottom with a short zig-zag seam .
This completes the processing of the codpiece.
This is what a zipper looks like, sewn into trousers with a one-piece codpiece, in the finished product, after attaching the belt:
In this article, we talked about what fasteners for trousers can be, found out what a codpiece, slope, valance are, and looked in detail at how to sew a zipper into trousers with a one-piece codpiece (valance). I tried to explain in detail so that processing the codpiece yourself would not cause you any difficulties. Easy sewing for you.
Terminology nuances
There are two types of zippers: hidden and non-hidden. The first is sewn into the side seam of the product in such a way that only the lock pawl remains visible. The non-hidden one runs through the center of the item, but it is not visible because it is covered with a special strip of fabric. This rectangular piece of material is called a valance or codpiece. There is one more detail of the trouser fly - the slope. This is also a strip of fabric, but it covers the fastener from the bottom, preventing the body from getting pinched and clothing from getting caught in the zipper teeth.
The codpiece can be set-in or one-piece. If the choice is made on the second option, then it should be laid down at the time of creating the pattern. To do this, add a rectangular piece of woven fabric to the middle seam at the front of the pants. Its length should be 19 cm, width - 5 cm. These are the standard parameters of the valance. A set-in is made from a separate piece of fabric and sewn to the fly.
During work, it is worth considering who the pants are intended for. On women's trousers, the codpiece is sewn on the right side, on men's trousers - on the left.
Hidden zipper
Unhidden
Set-in codpiece
How to sew a zipper into trousers with a codpiece
In order to sew a zipper into trousers with a codpiece, at the cutting stage you will need to make several parts: the product itself, the codpiece and a double slope (2 identical parts stitched together).
You should leave one free edge at the slope, sew the rest from the inside, and turn it inside out.
We attach a zipper to the free edge of the slope.
Fold and iron the middle section of the left side of the trousers. Under the left cut you need to put a slope with a zipper and pin it with pins.
The next step is to stitch the zipper to the edge.
We sew a codpiece to the right side of the trousers. The allowances should be ironed, and the codpiece, on the contrary, should be ironed inward.
It is necessary to mark an alignment line on both parts, approximately 1 cm apart.
We apply and baste the upper part of the future fastener. Now we turn the product over and baste the free edge of the braid to the codpiece. Important: do not grab the main part of the product.
Next, bend the codpiece and stitch the zipper to the edge of the codpiece.
