How to sew regilin
Today's tailors are not limited in the selection of sewing equipment, fabrics and accessories - they have at their service both ultra-modern “auxiliary tools” and materials well known to the craftsmen. One of the most famous, common and frequently used types of accessories is regilin, a real “long-liver” of tailoring.
It is a specialized tape of varying degrees of rigidity. Tailors have been working very closely with the material since the mid-19th century. From the very beginning, it was made from cotton or linen fabric, and hard horsehair was used as a base.
Without a ribbon, as a rule, it was impossible to make a frame petticoat and “hold” a fluffy lady’s dress.
For some time, natural materials were abandoned - their production was very expensive, and the fashion for crinolines passed away.
Today, regilin (or, as it is sometimes called, “regilin”) is again “in fashion.” It is made from artificial compounds that are not harmful to human health, and the finished product is inexpensive.
The material is used not only in theater workshops and when sewing dance costumes. He successfully replaced the corset tape made of real whalebone (marine fauna suffers less) and iron inserts-bones, heavy and inflexible.
One of its positive qualities is its ease of sewing. To work with regilin, you do not need to be a professional.
With enough practice, you will be able to make even “complicated” corsets. Rigid stripes, famous for fashionistas for many centuries, were mainly sewn along the bottom of the skirt, achieving stabilization, excellent volume, beautiful shape and fluffiness of the frills.
Areas of use of regilin
- Creating elastic, wrinkle-free “waves” on a sun
or models of other styles that widen towards the bottom. - Adding pomp to wedding or lace dresses with a voluminous hem, or ballroom dancing costumes.
- Inserts into the seams on bodices - this requires a narrow tape of the highest rigidity.
- Formation of a clear, geometric bottom line of an asymmetrical cut skirt.
- Bodice design with lush flounces.
- Details of hats, haircuts, hair decorations.
Types of regilin and their use
Today's synthetic-based material is easy to use, resistant to wear and, thanks to the large number of types, suitable for the design of various products. Regilin
divided depending on:
- rigidity - from the hardness of a molded plastic strip to a plastic mesh;
- forms - there are tape and tubular materials;
- transverse size - on display cases there are both narrow, invisible stripes and wide ribbons.
In tailoring, tape rather than tubular material is often used. This is a mesh woven from artificial threads and reaches 20 cm in width.
It is with its help that a voluminous hem with airy, soft flounces is made. The tubular variety is used for sewing corsets, frames, strapless items, and processing items made of thick fabric.
A similar regilin will create unusual, extravagant costumes with complex geometry. For everyday or much more familiar holiday patterns, flexible tape material is suitable. It will thicken the bottom of knitted clothing and shape the hem of a bell- or trapezoid-style skirt.
Basic rules for using regilin
- For each fabric and each style, you must choose your own method of hemming the regillin - open, closed, “hidden” in a flounce or frill.
- The thinner the material of the product, the softer the tape should be, otherwise the bottom will bulge badly.
- Products with sewn-on regilin can only be ironed at low temperatures.
- To disguise the tape, it is chosen to match the color of the key fabric - manufacturers produce regiline in all sorts of colors.
- The ends of the tape must be secured - melted or sealed with masking tape if we are talking about light regilina.
To create curls on the hem, you can use thin types of fishing line instead of regilin. The bottom of the product will become “curly” and original.
Types of regilin and their use
Modern synthetic material is easy to use, wear-resistant and, thanks to its many types, is suitable for the design of various products.
Regilin is classified depending on:
- rigidity - from the hardness of a molded plastic strip to a flexible mesh;
- forms - there are tape and tubular materials;
- transverse size - on the counters there are both narrow, inconspicuous stripes and wide ribbons.
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In tailoring, tape rather than tubular material is more often used. This is a mesh woven from synthetic threads and reaching 20 cm in width. It is with its help that a voluminous hem with airy, soft flounces is created. The tubular variety is used for sewing corsets, frames, strapless items, and processing items made of thick fabric. Such regilin will help you create fancy, extravagant outfits with complex geometry.
For everyday or more familiar holiday models, flexible tape material is suitable. It will thicken the bottom of knitted clothing and shape the hem of a bell- or trapezoid-style skirt.
Basic rules for using regilin
- For each fabric and each style, you need to select your own method of hemming regilina - open, closed, “hidden” in a flounce or frill.
- The thinner the material of the product, the softer the tape should be, otherwise the bottom will puff up unsightly.
- Products with sewn-on regilin can only be ironed at low temperatures.
- To disguise the tape, it is matched to the color of the main fabric - manufacturers produce regilin in a variety of shades.
- The ends of the tape need to be strengthened - melted or sealed with masking tape if we are talking about light regilina.
To create curls on the hem, you can use thin types of fishing line instead of regilin. The bottom of the product will become “curly” and unusual.
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Open processing technique
The hemming method is selected depending on the purpose of the item and the desired shape of the products or volumetric elements. The most common processing method is open.
You can give an easy-to-implement basic recommendation on how to sew on regilin
, if it does not matter whether it is visible or not.
By choosing the color of the ribbon, you will hide the transition line.
Progress
- Cut the regilin strip along the length of the sewing line.
- Overcast the bottom and place a regilline strip on it from the front side
. - Sew 5-7 mm from the cut.
- Turn the strip to the wrong side and iron it.
- Sew the second edge of the strip along the bottom on the frill or hem - for thin fabric or a straight cut, you can use hidden seams or a “goat” (do not tighten it).
This option is used for half-sun or sun styles, and also for products made from dense types of textiles. If the fabric is thin, but sew
If you can’t, use the same technique, choosing the right shade or translucent stripes.
The cut does not need to be processed using an overlocker - it remains closed, and the appearance of the product cannot be damaged. To sew on regilin
to the bottom of the skirt
there is a sun
made of chiffon, tulle, cotton or mesh fabric; first you need to lay the material wrong side up. The tape is attached along the edge of the hem, lengthening it, and then tucked under.
If you do not want to sew on a seal, then use a transition adhesive that is up to one and a half 1.5 cm wide.
The thinner it is, the more beautiful the finished product will be. It is attached to the regiline from the inside out and ironed along with the product.
The finished bottom treatment is almost invisible on both sides.
How to sew regilin to a garment
Most often, rigid tape is used to decorate the bottom edge of products. How to sew regilline braid to the bottom of, for example, a circle skirt?
There are 2 methods, the choice depends on the stage of edge processing.
- If the bottom of the product is not processed, then the tape is applied to the front side, retreating 5-6 mm from the edge, after which it is stitched. Then fold the braid inside out of the fabric, baste it and iron it. The last stage is sewing the tape with a machine seam.
- If the lower edge is processed, then regilin is applied from the wrong side, secured with tailor's pins and secured with a machine seam.
In addition to a skirt with regiline, you can also shape a dress, a peplum, or frills on a blouse or top in the same way.
Invisible processing method
If you do not want the seal to be visible, you must use a closed method. It is suitable for hemming frills and hems of asymmetrical skirts.
A hem is used for it, in which the seal is “hidden”.
Before sewing on the regillin for the frill, it is cut out separately, leaving an allowance at the bottom. To work you will need a narrow strip (up to 2 cm).
The frill along the cut is folded to the wrong side by 5-10 mm and ironed.
Afterwards, you should make 1 more fold with a width that matches the size of the tape and iron the “structure”. A sealant is placed in the resulting hem and adjusted one millimeter from the edge.
If the material is colored or variegated, the stitch will be invisible. For hemming a skirt - sun
with an asymmetrical hem, on which the tape is not visible from the back, you will need:
- cut out a product with a lining that exactly repeats the features of the top;
- fold the parts with their right sides facing each other and sew along the bottom cut line, placing regilin on the seam allowance;
- iron the seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch;
- turn the product right side out and iron along the fold line;
- make a fixing seam, stepping back from the bottom hem line.
This option is suitable for all products in which it is necessary to hide auxiliary materials, but it is not alone. When working with tubular ribbons, you can “hide” regiline in the hem or use drawstrings, lace and a strip on the lining.
Hidden processing method
If you do not want the seal to be visible, you need to use a closed method. It is suitable for hemming frills and hems of asymmetrical skirts. For it, a hem is used, in which the seal is “hidden”. Before sewing on the regillin for the frill, it is cut out separately, leaving an allowance at the bottom. To work, you will need a narrow strip (up to 2 cm). The frill along the cut is folded to the wrong side by 5-10 mm and ironed. Then you need to make another hem with a width that matches the size of the tape and iron the “structure”. A sealant is inserted into the resulting hem and adjusted one millimeter from the edge. If the material is colored or variegated, the stitch will be invisible.
To hem a circle skirt with an asymmetrical hem, on which the ribbon is not visible from the reverse side, you will need:
- cut out a product with a lining that exactly follows the contours of the top;
- fold the elements with their right sides facing each other and sew along the bottom cut line, placing regilin on the seam allowance;
- iron the seam allowance to the wrong side and topstitch;
- Turn the product right side out and iron along the fold line;
- lay a fixing seam, stepping back from the bottom hem line.
This method is suitable for all products in which it is necessary to hide auxiliary materials, but it is not the only one. When working with tubular ribbons, you can “hide” the regillin in the hem or use drawstrings, lace and a strip on the lining.
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Alternative covert processing options
Regilin is very often used when sewing petticoats and corsages. It is inserted, strengthening the product, giving it rigidity and a certain shape.
To do this, closed drawstrings are made on the bodice on the reverse side.
There is no need to adjust the tape - you just need to insert it into the hollow fold. When making corsets, be sure to keep in mind that the product must fit tightly to the figure, otherwise the seal strips change due to the rotation of the rods (they replace the lobe threads in the tape).
It is worth additionally providing horizontal fasteners that will prevent the plastic elements from moving in a vertical position. In this way, regilin is threaded through the hem of dance or formal, fluffy dresses. In this case, it is necessary to choose a tubular seal of very high rigidity.
The folded edge is closed with a stitch, a hidden stitch, but a ribbon that is also closed on the reverse side looks more professional and elegant.
How to Hide Regiline in a Strip of Lining or Silky, Mesh Fabric
- Cut out a strip of “extra” fabric. Its width is equal to double the width of the seal plus 2 cm for allowances. The cutting line follows the features of the bottom of the product (straight or rounded).
- Iron the strip folded in two, invest in the folded regilin and stitch along the entire width.
- Place the lining fabric on the right side on the edge of the skirt and sew in a stitch.
- Trim seam allowances to 5-7 mm, turn the strip to the wrong side, iron and sew.
On figured hems, with a noticeable reverse, it is also necessary to cover the regilin, but the order of actions changes slightly. If the strip is wide, from 10 cm, it is sewn between the lining and the upper side of the product.
The two parts are ground along the bottom, trimming the allowances to 7 mm. The tape must be applied from the side of the skirt, not the lining part.
This way you will hide the seam allowances and they will not go along the front side.
Progress
- The seal is sewn 1 millimeter from the edges onto the seam allowance along the bottom.
- Turn the lining to the bottom and stitch along the seam allowance one millimeter from the seam. She will not turn her face away and will not “peek out” from under her skirt.
- Turn the lining inside out and iron along with the transition piping.
- Sew the lining to the product along the waist line.
This is how premium, couture dresses are finished. If the operation seems too labor-intensive, simply cover the sealing tape with a strip of lace.
Other covert processing options
Regilin is often used when sewing petticoats and corsages. It is inserted, strengthening the product, giving it rigidity and a clear shape. To do this, closed drawstrings are made on the bodice on the wrong side. There is no need to adjust the tape - just insert it into the hollow fold. When making corsets, be sure to take into account that the product must fit snugly to the figure, otherwise the sealing strips will be deformed due to the rotation of the rods (they replace the lobe threads in the tape). It is worth additionally providing horizontal fasteners that will not allow the plastic elements to move vertically.
In a similar way, regilin is threaded into the hem of dance or formal, fluffy dresses. In this case, it is worth choosing a tubular seal of increased rigidity. The folded edge is closed with a stitch or a hidden stitch, but a ribbon that is also closed on the reverse side looks more professional and elegant.
How to hide regiline in a strip of lining or silk, mesh fabric
- Cut out a strip from “auxiliary” material. Its width is equal to double the width of the seal plus 2 cm for allowances. The cutting line follows the contours of the bottom of the product (straight or rounded).
- Iron the strip folded in half, insert it into the folded regilin and stitch along the entire width.
- Place the lining fabric on the right side on the edge of the skirt and sew it together.
- Trim seam allowances to 5-7 mm, turn the strip to the wrong side, iron and sew.
On figured hems, with a noticeable reverse, you also need to cover the regilin, but the sequence of actions changes slightly. If the strip is wide, from 10 cm, it is sewn between the lining and the upper side of the product. Both parts are ground at the bottom, trimming the allowances to 7 mm. The tape should be applied from the side of the skirt, not the lining part. This way you will hide the seam allowances and they will not run along the front side.
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Progress
- The seal is sewn 1 millimeter from the edges onto the seam allowance along the bottom.
- Turn the lining to the bottom and stitch along the seam allowance one millimeter from the seam. She will not turn her face away and will not “peek out” from under her skirt.
- Turn the lining inside out and iron it together with the transition piping.
- Sew the lining to the product along the waist line.
Premium, couture dresses are processed in a similar way. If the operation seems too labor-intensive, simply cover the sealing tape with a strip of lace.
Creating wavy edges with fishing line
Instead of classic regilin, use a thin, strong fishing line 0.2-1 mm in diameter. With its help, they make magnificent decorative “curls” on costumes for dances, carnivals, and children's parties.
The line must be adjusted along the edges, using a very small zigzag stitch.
Progress
- Fold the bottom 5-10 millimeters.
- Insert fishing line into the fold and sew - the zigzag should be thick and not very wide.
- Trim off any additional seam allowance.
If you have an overlocker, you can create a rolled seam by placing fishing line in it. Make sure that under the foot the fabric stretches well along the cut, so the curls will bend sharply from the edges.
For children's costumes, you need to take the thinnest fishing line, 0.2 mm in diameter. Using wire, you can process multi-layered skirts cut on the bias, fluffy flounces and ruffles along the bodice.
Using regilin, you will sew many original, fantasy costumes without spending a lot of time and effort on the work.
Creating wavy edges with fishing line
Instead of traditional regilin, you can use a thin, strong fishing line 0.2-1 mm in diameter. With its help, they create spectacular decorative “curls” on dresses for dances, carnivals, and children's parties. The line needs to be adjusted along the edges using a fine zigzag stitch.
Progress
- Fold the bottom 5-10 millimeters.
- Insert fishing line into the fold and sew - the zigzag should be thick and not too wide.
- Trim off any excess seam allowance.
If you have an overlocker, you can make a rolled seam by placing fishing line in it. Make sure that under the foot the fabric stretches well along the cut, so the curls will bend sharply from the edges. For children's costumes, you need to take the thinnest fishing line, 0.2 mm in diameter. Using wire, you can process multi-layered skirts cut on the bias, fluffy flounces and ruffles along the bodice. Using regilin, you will sew many non-trivial, fantasy outfits without spending a lot of time and effort on the work.
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How to sew regiline to a sun skirt
Regilin has been used in tailoring since the nineteenth century. Cotton or linen was used to make it, and the base was hard horsehair.
Using regilline tape, frame petticoats were made, without which it was impossible to sew a fluffy dress.
Today, the fashion for this type of fittings has returned, however, instead of natural materials, cheap artificial compounds are used. Regiline tapes are indispensable when creating attractive waves on a feminine sun
, wedding and lace dresses, when designing a bodice, etc.
Regilin and its specifics
The classification is carried out according to these parameters: The transverse size of the tape can vary from 5 mm to stripes of 20 cm, with the help of the latter they create a voluminous, attractive hem. The shape of the material can be tubular or ribbon. When it comes to creating corsets and frames for extravagant costumes, the first type is used.
The second is used when designing much more familiar models.
If we talk about hardness, then regilin can be soft or hard. The soft one is an artificial tape, which has a width from one and a half to 10 cm, and a large palette of colors.
The main area of use is dance costumes and children's ballroom dresses. “Crinoline” or wide flexible regile, perfect for sealing the hem of a circle skirt, is made from synthetic fishing line fibers. Rigid is a grosgrain tape, which is usually placed in the seams. Important! The thinner the fabric of the product, the softer the regilin should be. When working with any of these types, a transparent nylon thread is perfect, since even when chosen to match the tone, it can be visible in the light.
Ways to sew regiline to a sun skirt
There are two ways: closed and open. Closed method.
Very often used in the case of raw edges. The product lies face up, and the regilline tape is applied overlapping the cut by approximately 5 mm.
Stepping back one or two mm from the edge of the tape, stitch it off. Now, if you bend the tape inside out, the raw cut will be in the middle.
To stitch the regillin on the other side, it is much better to iron the edge of the product. Open method.
When working with a finished edge, the regiline tape is applied either inside out or on the front side of the product, fixed with specialized pins and adjusted on both sides at a distance of 1–2 mm from the edge. To prevent the edges of the tape from pricking, you can singe them with a lighter until balls form. Regiline in the middle of the skirt.
When developing frame petticoats, regilin is not adjusted, but is placed in a specialized fold, which is made on the reverse side of the product.
How to use regilin: useful tips
Now that we have defined what it is - regilin, let's move on to the practical part.
Let's start with the selection of threads. For sewing, it is better to use colorless nylon threads, since colored ones will stand out in the light, even if you choose them exactly to match.
Let's move on to the question of how to sew regiline to a skirt. There are two possible ways.
- The first one, if the edge is not processed. We lay the product face up, apply regilin to the cut with an overlap of 5 mm and stitch it 1-2 mm from the edge of the tape. We bend the tape to the wrong side, the raw edge is inside the seam. Now the edge of the product can be swept and ironed for convenience. Then we adjust the tape on the second side.
- The second method is used if the edge of the product has already been processed. In this case, we simply apply regilin to the wrong or front side of the product, secure it with tailor’s pins and adjust it on both sides at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.
Before processing, it is recommended to melt the ends of the synthetic fibers until balls form, otherwise the edge of the tape may prick. You can, as an alternative, use masking tape and cover the edges of the tape with small pieces, but this option is only applicable on white regile.
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Sewing. How to make the bottom of a skirt fluffy using regilin or fishing line. Master Class
Very much gratitude to the author: Svetlana Khatskevich
To ensure that the bottom of the fluffy and wide skirt of the dress lies in elastic waves and does not fall off, it is secured with regiline tape. A similar option for processing the bottom of the skirt is often used for ballroom and wedding dresses.
Regilin is an artificial tape of unequal width and stiffness. In many cases, there is a rigid regiline - a narrow tape for the corsage, which is inserted into the seams.
There is also soft regilin - ribbons with a width of 1.5 to 10 cm. The colors are very different, they even come with lurex, but they are very often used in dance costumes or in children's ballroom dresses.
This tape, woven from colored fishing line fibers, is flexible and elastic; it can be laid out either straight or along a rounded cut. The tape can be ironed at low temperature. At points of sale, this ribbon is also called “crinoline”. REGILINE IS SEWED IN TWO OPTIONS: Closed and Open.
Depending on where the regilin is sewn and how much the bottom of the product should “stand”, the method of sewing it is selected. LET'S LOOK AT EXAMPLES OF HOW TO SEW ON REGILINE
.
Example 1
Today, the most popular model of a sundress and top is a bodice with a frill. This is what a frill looks like in soft fabrics without regilin:
So that REGILINE IS NOT VISIBLE DURING the movement of the FRILL, WE SEW IT IN A CLOSED WAY.
STEP 1 Cut out a frill with an allowance at the bottom = the width of the regilline tape + 1 cm. The regilline needs to be narrow, 1.5-2 cm is enough.
Fold the edge of the frill to the wrong side by 0.5-1.0 cm and iron it.
STEP 2 Fold the bottom of the frill again to the width of the hemline and iron it.
STEP 3 Invest regilline tape into the hem and stitch the hem 1mm from the edge
In a variegated fabric, the line will not be as visible. You can sew the hem with a blind stitch if a line is not desired. View with regilin
Regilin is sewn openly along the bottom of the skirt:
This is the most popular option for how to sew on regilin
to the skirt. In a long product it will not be visible, but in frills at the bottom of the skirt (as in the photo), the regilline tape is chosen according to the shade. STEP 1 Place regilin on the bottom of the part from the front side and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the cut.
STEP 2 Fold the tape to the wrong side and iron it. The allowance will wrap around the edge of the tape.
STEP 3 Stitch the second edge of the ribbon to the bottom of the skirt or frill. You can sew the second edge with a blind stitch or a goat stitch.
However, this method is only suitable for thin fabrics and straight cuts.
HOW TO SEW
REGILINE, IF THE SKIRT
IS SUN
, HALF SUN OR THE FABRIC IS THICK? THEN THE REGILINE TAPE IS SEWED LIKE THIS:
STEP 1 Overcast the bottom. Place regiline tape on the front side
and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the bottom edge.
Regiline and the stitches in the sample are opposite for clarity. Regilin is also contrasting.
STEP 2 Turn the tape inside out and iron it. Sew the second edge of the regiline tape to the bottom or hem it with a blind stitch or a goat seam, without tightening it.
In purchased products, in order not to sew the tape manually, it is glued to a strip of adhesive. The thinner the adhesive, the better.
LET'S CONSIDER THIS METHOD WITH THE EXAMPLE OF FORMBAND STRIPS An adhesive strip 1-1.5 cm wide is placed on the second edge of the tape from the wrong side.
After the bottom is ironed, the tape is glued along the bottom. A multi-purpose ironing pad can be
It is practically invisible neither from the face nor from the inside.
What can I do so that the regillin at the bottom of the skirt is not so visible along the edge? Or so that the stitching line for regillin is not visible from the front side?
Working with regilin
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You can close the edge with regiline with lace. But the treatment looks very stylish when the regilin is closed and on the reverse side too.
In this case, it is hidden in a strip of lining. HOW TO PROPERLY SEW REGILINE TO A SKIRT IN A CASE LIKE THIS?
STEP 1 Cut out a strip of lining with a width = double the width of the lining + 2cm allowance. If the cut is straight, then the strip is also cut straight.
If the edge is rounded, like the sun
, then the strip of lining is cut on the bias.
Instead of a lining, you can use silk or thin mesh. Mesh is suitable if the top of the dress is made of lace.
STEP 2 Iron the strip in two, invest in the fold of the regillin and stitch the strip to the width of the regillin.
STEP 3 Place the lining with regilin on the front side
onto the cut of the skirt and stitch exactly to the line on the lining strip.
STEP 4 Trim the seam allowances to 0.5-0.7 cm and turn the strip inside out. Iron it and sew it with a blind stitch.
Be careful both from the face and from the inside!
This option is perfect FOR SHORT FLARED SKIRTS. Regiline at the bottom of the skirt
In this dress, the bottom is figured, thanks to which the underside is visible. But the bottom is reinforced with a wide (10 cm) regilin tape.
How to hide it?
In this case, regilin is sewn between the top and lining of the skirt. STEP 1 Cut out the lining exactly according to the pattern for the top of the skirt with the same allowances at the bottom. Place the lining face to face on the skirt and stitch along the bottom.
STEP 2 Trim seam allowances to 0.7 cm, put regillin on the seam allowances on the side of the skirt, not the lining! Otherwise, the allowances will lie on the front side.
Stitch the hemline 1mm from the edge to the hem allowance.
STEP 3 Turn the lining down and stitch it to an allowance of 1 mm from the seam so that it does not turn right side out and does not peek out from below.
STEP 4 Unscrew the lining to the wrong side of the dress and iron it with a transition edging along the bottom (this is a 1-2 mm roll of an important detail to the wrong side). Then the skirt lining is sewn on at the waist. This option is also used in expensive dresses. This is, in other words, a “haute couture” treatment.
Bottom of the skirt on a fishing line
You can use fishing line instead of regilin. Then the bottom of the skirt will be “curly”.
The thicker the line and the flared the skirt
, the steeper the curls along the edge of the hem are.
The fishing line is taken from 0.2 mm to 1 mm in diameter. Adjust the line with a very small zigzag along the edge.
To do this, bend the bottom by 5-10 mm, put a fishing line in the fold and sew it with a narrow, thick zigzag. Then the excess allowance is cut off to the line.
You can also use a rolled seam with an overlocker, also placing fishing line in the seam.
How to sew regilline (crinoline) to the bottom of a skirt/How to solder regilline without a soldering iron/Working with regilline
The main thing is to stretch the cut of fabric under the foot. The more you stretch the cut, the steeper the curl along the edge will be.
This is the resulting wavy edge. The thinnest fishing line was used in the master class: 0.2 mm. This option is used to trim the bottoms of children's dance costumes and multi-layered skirts cut on the bias, as in the photo. In the same way, you can create a lush edge of frills and flounces.
Closed processing
How to sew regiline to the bottom of a sun skirt with an asymmetrical edge? After all, it is important here that it is not visible from the inside out. Here you should use a hidden method. To do this, the skirt is cut with a lining, which should exactly repeat all the silhouette lines of the upper part. The parts are folded face down and stitched along the bottom edge. After this, regilin is applied and stitched onto the allowance. Next, the allowance is smoothed onto the wrong side of the fabric and adjusted. All that remains is to turn the skirt right side out, iron the fold and, stepping back from the bottom of the hem, sew a seam to secure it.
This processing option is suitable for all products and parts where it is important that the auxiliary material is not visible from the inside.
How to make the bottom of a skirt fuller with Regilin
We sew a fluffy tulle skirt using regilin. How to sew regilin.
So that the bottom of the fluffy and wide skirt of the dress lies in elastic waves and does not fall off, it is secured with regilline tape. A similar option for processing the bottom of the skirt is often used for ballroom and wedding dresses.
Regilin is an artificial tape of unequal width and stiffness. In many cases, there is rigid regiline - a narrow tape for the corsage, which is inserted into the seams.
There is also soft regilin - ribbons with a width of 1.5 to 10 cm. The colors are very different, they even come with lurex, but they are very often used in dance costumes or children's ballroom dresses.
This tape, woven from colored fishing line fibers, is flexible and elastic; it can be laid out either straight or along a rounded cut. The tape can be ironed at low temperature. At points of sale, this ribbon is also called “crinoline”.
Regilin is sewn in two ways: closed and open.
Depending on where the regilin is sewn and how much the bottom of the product should “stand”, the method of sewing it is selected.
Let's look at examples of how to sew regilin.
Example 1
Today, the most popular model of a sundress and top is a bodice with a frill.
To prevent the regillin from being visible during the movement of the frill, we sew it closed.
Step 1
Cut out a frill with an allowance at the bottom = the width of the regilline tape + 1 cm. The regilline needs to be narrow, 1.5-2 cm is enough.
Fold the edge of the frill to the wrong side by 0.5-1.0 cm and iron.
Step 2
Fold the bottom of the frill again to the width of the ruffle and iron it.
Step 3
Invest in hem tape and stitch the hem 1mm from the edge.
In a variegated fabric, the line will not be as visible. Can be sewn
hem with a blind stitch if a line is not desired.
Example 2
This is the most popular option for how to sew on regilin
to the skirt. In a long product it will not be visible, but in frills at the bottom of the skirt (as in the photo), the regilline tape is chosen according to the shade.
Step 1
Place regilin on the bottom of the part from the front side
and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the cut.
Step 2
Fold the ribbon back and iron it. The allowance will wrap around the edge of the tape.
Step 3
Sew the second edge of the ribbon to the bottom of the skirt or frill. Can be sewn
the second edge is sewn with a blind stitch or a goat seam.
However, this method is only suitable for thin fabrics and straight cuts.
How to sew on regillin if the skirt is sun, semi-sun or the fabric is thick? Then the regiline tape is sewn like this:
Step 1
Sew down the bottom. Place the regiline tape on the front side and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge of the bottom.
Regiline and the stitches in the sample are opposite for clarity. Regilin
also contrasting.
Step 2
Turn the tape inside out and iron it. Sew the second edge of the regiline tape to the bottom or hem it with a blind stitch or a goat seam, without tightening it.
Step 3
In purchased products, in order not to sew the tape manually, it is glued to a strip of adhesive (purchase at the Burda store). The thinner the adhesive, the better.
Let's consider this method using the example of a formband strip
A strip of adhesive 1 x 1.5 cm wide is applied to the second edge of the tape from the wrong side.
After the bottom is ironed, the tape is glued along the bottom. A multi-purpose ironing pad can be purchased at the Burda store.
It is practically invisible neither from the face nor from the inside.
Example 3
What can I do so that the regillin at the bottom of the skirt is not so visible along the edge? Or so that the line of stitching the regillin is not visible from the front side
?
You can close the edge with regiline with lace. But the treatment looks very stylish when the regilin is closed and on the reverse side too.
In this case, it is hidden in a strip of lining.
How to properly sew regiline to a skirt in such a case?
Step 1
Cut out a strip of lining with a width = double the width of the lining + 2 cm allowance. If the cut is straight, then the strip is also cut straight.
If the edge is rounded, like a sun skirt, then the lining strip is cut out on the bias. Instead of a lining, you can use silk or thin mesh.
Mesh is suitable if the top of the dress is made of lace.
Step 2
Iron the strip in two, invest in the fold of the regillin and stitch the strip to the width of the regillin.
Step 3
Place the lining with regelin on the right side of the skirt and sew exactly in line with the line on the lining strip.
Step 4
Trim the seam allowances to 0.5-0.7 cm and turn the strip inside out. Iron it and sew it on
with a hidden stitch.
Be careful both from the face and from the inside!
This option is perfect for short flared skirts.
Example 4
In this dress, the bottom is figured, thanks to which the underside is visible. But the bottom is reinforced with a wide (10 cm) regilin tape.
How to hide it?
In this case, regilin is sewn between the top and lining of the skirt.
Step 1
Cut the lining exactly according to the pattern for the top of the skirt with the same allowances at the bottom. Place the lining face to face on the skirt and stitch along the bottom.
Step 2
Trim the seam allowances to 0.7 cm, put regillin on the seam allowances on the side of the skirt, not the lining! Otherwise, the allowances will lie on the front side
.
Stitch regiline
1 mm from the edge to the bottom allowance.
Step 3
Turn the lining down and stitch it to an allowance of 1 mm from the seam, so that it does not turn right side out and does not peek out from below.
Step 4
Turn the lining to the wrong side of the dress and iron it with a transition edging along the bottom (this is a 1-2 mm roll of an important detail to the wrong side). Then the skirt lining is sewn on at the waist. This option is also used in expensive dresses. This is, in other words, a “haute couture” treatment.
Example 5
You can use fishing line instead of regilin. Then the bottom of the skirt will be “curly”.
The thicker the line and the flared the skirt
, the steeper the curls along the edge of the hem are.
The fishing line is taken from 0.2 mm to 1 mm in diameter. Adjust the line with a very small zigzag along the edge.
To do this, bend the bottom by 5-10 mm, put a fishing line in the fold and sew it with a narrow, thick zigzag.
Then the excess allowance is cut off to the line. You can also use a rolled seam with an overlocker, also placing fishing line in the seam.
The main thing is to stretch the cut of fabric under the foot. The more you stretch the cut, the steeper the curl along the edge will be.
This is the resulting wavy edge. The thinnest fishing line was used in the master class: 0.2 mm. This option is used to trim the bottoms of children's dance costumes and multi-layered skirts cut on the bias, as in the photo. In the same way, you can create a lush edge of frills and flounces. You can create a fuller skirt using a petticoat. How?
New Year's dress made of velvet + ready-made bodice pattern. Skirt with regiline.
You will learn about this in the next master class.
Svetlana Khatskevich
Svetlana graduated from the Institute with a degree in Sewing Technological Engineer. She has been teaching sewing technology for about twenty years. considered a senior teacher at Burda Academy.
We know Svetlana from her work on the resource since its inception. She shares a wealth of knowledge and infects with her own love of sewing. Sewing is creative, interesting and educational. We kindly invite you into this bright and interesting world!
This is the third part of a large master class on sewing prom dresses. We need to follow the continuation of the special project “Spring Ball”. Author of the master class and photo: Svetlana Khatskevich Material prepared by Yulia Dekanova