DIY braid for a boy in one evening

The history of a men's shirt with an oblique collar

The name of the product comes from the word “oblique collar,” that is, not sewn straight, but obliquely. Previously, shirts were made exclusively from hemp fabric, although modern ones can be made from any fabric, preferably natural - cotton, linen. The kosovorotka was worn as underwear, outerwear, decorated with tassels and belts and used as festive outfits.

Men's shirt

Note! The pattern of a Slavic men's shirt is so simple that even a beginner can make it. It is enough to take the correct measurements.

Today, this type of product is used both in everyday life and on national holidays. The main advantage of the shirt is its convenience. It is loose-fitting, not fitted, so it does not restrict movement. It is for this reason that back in 1880, the kosovorotka served as a soldier’s uniform.

Initially, the collar was cut in a straight line, not on an oblique. But later they decided to move it to the side so that the pectoral cross would not fall out during work and bending (according to historical data). Since then, the name kosovorotka came to be, and the style of the shirt has survived to this day and is very popular among people, regardless of age and gender.

Nowadays, the classic shirt pattern is used for sewing many products: sundresses, women's and men's shirts, underwear, pajamas or Ukrainian embroidered shirts. Based on it, you can even sew women's nightgowns from satin or silk.

Slavic shirt

Measurements for sewing a shirt

To sew a men's shirt yourself, you first need to make a pattern, but to do this you need to take measurements:

• back width;
• sleeve length (to measure correctly, bend your elbow and place a centimeter from your neck over your shoulder and elbow);
• hip girth;
• head circumference (to cut the neckline correctly);
• length of the product.

How to take measurements
You can add a few centimeters to all measurements, because a folk shirt should fit freely.

Cutting and elements

The Russian shirt, the pattern of which is presented below, is sewn in several stages: taking measurements, cutting, sewing. Before sewing, you need to cut out all the elements of the shirt. They are all rectangular, so no difficulties should arise. It is enough to calculate the width and length of the products:

Decorative elements are used to decorate the product: it can be a ribbon, braid, embroidery, a belt with tassels, etc.

Elements

In addition to the classic method of cutting a shirt, where all the elements are rectangles and squares, there is another way to sew a product of this type. The main difference is that in the first version the main part is cut out as a solid rectangular cut, and in the second - in two parts - the back and the front. As a result, the product will be the same, only there will be an additional seam from the neck to the sleeve. The differences can be seen in the picture below.

The second version of the shirt cut

For those new to sewing, it is recommended to first draw a pattern on paper and then cut it out of fabric. Experienced craftsmen can immediately transfer everything onto the canvas and cut out parts for stitching. Unlike other products, the Russian shirt has no darts and the style is quite loose, so it can be sewn oversized, that is, one size at a time. When wearing, you can tie the shirt with a belt, which will emphasize the waist, and the product will fit your figure and not look baggy.

Main part

The standard pattern for a shirt for a man is size 54 - it needs to be drawn from the main part. The base (this is the base of the shirt, it is sometimes called the body) - it is cut into a rectangle measuring 2 times the length of the product. To do this, first measure the height of a man or boy, transfer it to fabric folded in half, and cut out the main part.

Stanovina

The main panel should correspond to the width and length of the future shirt. According to the classics, the width should be 36 cm, because this is exactly the width of the homespun fabrics used to make clothes. The rest of the volume is added by the side panels.

Attention! When taking measurements, you need to add 2-3 centimeters to the resulting numbers for seam allowances.

Sleeve pattern

The braided shirt, the pattern of which is made almost the same for men and boys, has several features when cutting out the sleeves. Unlike a regular shirt, the sleeve pattern also looks like a rectangle, like the frame.

Barrels (side panels) are calculated according to the formula: you need to subtract the length of the armhole from the length of the side seam. As a standard, they take 1 meter for the average width of the product, but if the customer wants a more fitted option, then the shirt is cut out according to individual measurements.

When cutting out sleeves, it is important not to forget about the gusset. These are underarm inserts. Typically they are cut out in the form of a square, approximately 15 × 15 cm or 20 × 20 cm.

The gusset is not the most important element of the shirt and you can do without it. But its presence is considered a sign of the quality of a good product. The gusset can be triangular, square, or diamond-shaped and serves to strengthen the side seam connecting the front and back. Beginners who are sewing a shirt for the first time can avoid focusing on the gusset and sew the product without it.

The width of the sleeve should be equal to the width of the frame and be equal to 36 cm. But the length is determined individually. The sleeve can be short, to the elbow, 2/4 or completely long.

Neck

You can use any braid for the neckline. To make the product look elegant, you can sew on an embroidered border. Before sewing the barrels, you need to process the clasp of the shirt. The collar itself is sewn in after all the details have been stitched, that is, at the very end.

Sleeve cuff - pattern

The cuffs are cut out as desired, depending on the intended model. The sleeves can be left loose or the cuffs can be cut to fit around the wrist. Another option: elastic at the edge of the sleeve.

Master class on cutting and sewing cuffs:

1. A cuff is cut out (4 pcs.).
2. To compact it, you can use non-woven fabric, which is ironed on the inside of the mantege.
3. Next, 2 parts are applied face to face and basted with stitches, ironed and sewn on with a machine, not finishing 1 cm so that the part can be turned out.
4. The length of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the cuff must match. Due to the loose cut of the shirt, the sleeve according to the pattern will be wide, so it can be adjusted using one-sided folds.

Cuffs

Master class on sewing Russian folk shirts for beginner needlewomen

To sew a men's or children's shirt, different amounts of fabric are used. We offer you the option of using more fabric. For a boy, a smaller amount of material can be used, be guided by your measurements and sizes.

To form a shirt of Russian culture, we will need the following materials and tools:

• Approximately two linear meters of linen fabric. The width of the panel can be different - 1.5 meters, 1.6 meters and so on.
• Sewing threads to match the fabric;
• Sewing machine;
• Decorative braid;
• Sharp fabric scissors;
• Contrast fabric;
• Tailor's chalk;
• Pins.

Experienced craftswomen recommend soaking the linen in very hot water before sewing a Russian shirt. With this temperature exposure, flax fibers will shrink and you will not get a bad result by reducing the size of the finished product. After going through the shrinking process for your linen fiber fabric, dry the fabric completely and iron it. Now you can start cutting out a traditional shirt with your own hands.

Lay out the fabric on a flat surface and begin to create a shirt pattern. For example, for a man with a height of one meter and eighty centimeters, you can make a cut two meters long. Determine the width of your shirt based on the chest and waist measurements of the man for whom you are sewing the item of clothing. Don't forget to leave two centimeters over the entire surface of the pattern for seams. After all the measurements and drawings, you can start cutting all the parts of the shirt. Do this with sharp scissors to avoid damaging and fraying the edges of the linen fabric.

As a result of cutting out all the parts, you should have the following elements:

• one frame (long rectangle).
• two shirt sleeves with a length of approximately sixty-five centimeters. The sleeve width is standard forty-two centimeters and two centimeters for seam allowances.
• two gussets twelve by twelve centimeters.

Next, you need to fold the frame lengthwise and then widthwise. Bring the corners together very neatly and evenly, as well as the top of the shoulders. After this, you will form the neck of the Russian shirt according to the central location.

After you have cut the neck of the product, pull it through the internal slit that has been formed and set it aside for now. Then cut it even deeper into the canvas. The cut neckline must be decorated using bias tape. You can cut it out yourself, or you can purchase decorative trim at a specialty store.

Using a sewing machine, process all the cuts and cuts of your shirt blank. If you have an overlock function in your machine, then this will be very convenient for the product. If you have an ordinary sewing machine, then you can sew all the edges using a zigzag seam. This will prevent shedding and damage to the fabric sections of the canvas.

Now start sewing the bias tape onto the neck of the shirt. To make sewing easier, use tailoring pins: fix the trim on the neckline and sew with thread. You can also add decorative braid around the perimeter of the collar and sleeves or the bottom edge of the shirt. Determine decoration options based on your taste preferences and wishes.

Next, sew all the details of the sleeves and attach the gussets to them. Place these elements at the very edge of the product. Make neat edges of the sleeves by hemming them several times.

Also carefully tuck the edges of the shirt itself and sew using a smooth machine stitch. You can adjust the length of a traditional Russian cut shirt depending on the man’s preferences and wishes.

After all the described manipulations, you will get a beautiful and original shirt in a traditional style. You can use this item for holiday events or themed parties.

Product assembly for men and boys

Once all the pieces are cut out of the fabric, you can begin assembling the shirt. It consists of several steps:

1. The side panels are sewn to the frame. It is initially a rectangular piece of fabric, two lengths of the future product. You need to fold it in half, find the middle and cut out the neck.
2. The next step is to sew the sleeves, not forgetting to leave room for the gusset in the armpit area. The base is sewn onto them, after which the sleeves are attached to the side panels, and a gusset insert is sewn in.
3. The neckline can be turned up and stitched or finished with bias tape. Often, red or blue braid is used to decorate the product. The sleeves and bottom of the product were treated with the same braid.

MEN'S BRIDADY. CONSTRUCTION OF PATTERNS AND SEWING (Size 48)

To construct a drawing of a men's blouse (see also point 12, after pressing the 10th), you need to take four measurements (in cm): neck circumference (NC) - 19.5 chest circumference (CG) - 48 Product length (DI) - 80 Sleeve length (DR) - 65

Section II p2 is equal to 1/2 VP. From point p2 we restore a perpendicular of 1 cm and designate it as point pZ

The layout of the shirt patterns on the fabric for cutting is shown in Fig. 4; fabric consumption 2 m 50 cm with a width of 80 cm. Pattern details: 1. Back 2. Front 3. Sleeve 4. Top placket 5. Bottom placket 6. Collar Cutting and sewing To cut a blouse, the pattern is applied to the fabric folded in half (Fig. 4 ). Cut exactly according to the pattern, without seam allowance. Add 0.75 cm to the neckline. The cut for the fastener is made on the left side of the front of the shirt, 3 cm from the front along the neckline. The length of the cut is 28-30 cm. Sewing a blouse begins with sealing the lower and upper breastplates. To seal the bottom strip to the wrong side of the left edge of the front cut, apply the bottom strip with its edges flush, the bottom of the strip is folded by 0.5 cm, laying it at the level of the front cut. The folded strip and the edge of the cut are basted and machine-stitched from top to end along the strip with a seam 0.5 cm wide. The strip is unscrewed, bent over, and 2 cm is measured from the stitching seam. The trimmed edge of the strip is folded 0.75 cm and, stitching seam, attach with a seam 0.2 cm wide from the edge. The finished width of the bottom strip is 2.5-3 cm. Sealing the top strip. The top strip is applied to the wrong side of the right edge of the front cut with the front side facing. The strip for sealing the cape should be placed below the end of the cut by 5 cm and above the neck by 3 cm. The strip and the edge of the cut, folded together, are sewn on by machine with a seam 0.5 cm wide. .5 cm. The second trimmed edge of the strip is folded 1 cm and attached to the linear side of the front with a stitch 0.5 cm wide from the edge, covering the first stitching seam of the strip. The free edge of the bar (lobar fold) is also sewn with a seam 0.5 cm wide. The finished width of the top bar is 4 cm. The bar is closed at the bottom, in the middle with a toe (corner), the edges of which are swept and the top bar is placed on the bottom, covering the last gullet. The toe is marked and sewn on the machine with two transverse lines to secure the cut: the first at a distance of 4 cm from the corner of the toe, the second 0.5 cm above the first. Below the transverse stitches, the cape is also attached with two lines: the first at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge, the second at 0.3 cm from the first. Stitching and sewing of shoulder seams. The right shoulder seam of the back is folded with the right shoulder seam of the front, inside out, and the back is released by 1 cm and swept away. The released edge of the back is folded over to the front, covering the shoulder seam of the front by 0.5 cm, and machine stitched along the front from the armhole to the neck with a seam 0.5 cm wide. Then the seam is straightened, folded over to the front and departing from the edge of the fold by 0.2 cm, adjust from armhole to neckline. The left shoulder seam is sewn and stitched in exactly the same way, only stitch from the neckline to the armhole. After stitching the shoulder seams, both strips in the neckline are trimmed at the level of the neckline notch. Collar blank. The collar consists of three layers: top, bottom and padding between them. The padding is placed in the collar to make it more stable. From coarser and denser fabrics, for example, linen, canvas, a collar with embroidery is made without padding. When stitching a collar, three layers are folded in the following order: the top layer of the collar is placed face up, the bottom layer is placed face down on it, and a spacer is placed on top. All three layers should be folded evenly; they are ground off at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. The stitching starts from the bottom corner of the left side and ends at the bottom corner of the right side. The collar is turned right side out, the seams are straightened, aligning especially carefully at the corners so that the bottom layer does not go onto the face of the collar, then it is sown on three sides along the front side of the collar. The collar is applied to the neck of the blouse face to face along with the gasket and, taping along the neck, it is placed along the oblique cuts. Starting from the bottom bar, the collar along with the lining is stitched at a distance of 0.75 cm from the edge. Sew to the right edge of the collar. To prevent the top layer of the collar from getting caught in the stitching, it must be unscrewed. The stitching seam of the collar is covered with the top layer of the collar, the edge of which is folded inwards, basted and sewn along the front side with a seam 0.2 cm wide from the edge and 0.3 cm from the stitching. Sleeve tucking and stitching. The sleeve is sewn into the open armhole using a closed seam. The sleeve is placed face down on the front side of the armhole and basted so that the trimmed edge of the sleeve cap extends 1 cm from the edge of the armhole. The released edge is folded over the armhole by 0.75 cm and sewn on the machine with a seam 0.5 cm wide. Distortions and wrinkles are not allowed. The sleeve seam is straightened, placed on the armhole and the sleeve is sewn 0.2 cm from the edge of the fold. Stitching and sewing of side and sleeve seams. The side and sleeve seams are sewn with a backstitch. Hem at the bottom of the sleeve. After stitching the side and sleeve seams, the bottom of the sleeve is folded in by 2 cm. Then the trimmed edge is folded inward by 0.5 cm and sewn on a machine with a seam 0.25 cm wide from the edge of the fold. Hemming the bottom of the shirt. The bottom of the shirt is folded in the same way as the bottom of the sleeve. You cannot pull out the edge of the bottom, as the hem will end up skewed and with folds. While stitching, the edge of the bottom is held and aligned in front of the needle. About the loop mark. The loops are sewn by hand. To determine the location of the loops, the chest strap from the top to the intersecting lines of the bottom is bent into three equal parts. On the border of the first bend, make the first mark with chalk, on the border of the second - the second. Along the chalk marks along the plank and in the middle of its width, two loops are cut and sewn together. The size of the buttonholes must correspond to the size of the buttons MEN'S OPEN Neck UNDERSHIRTS (size 48)

A man's open-neck undershirt , or undershirt, has a two-piece yoke, two overlay cuffs, and two breastplates. The back of the lower shirt is widened, and a fold is added to the middle front. To construct a drawing you need to TAKE 5 measurements (in cm): Neck circumference (0/71) - 19.5 Chest circumference (OG) - 48 sleeve length (DR) - b5 shoulder length (DP - 16 Shirt length (DI) -8o Table for constructing a drawing of the bottom shirt with an open collar. We build a right angle with the vertex at point A

CUTTING AND SEWING

The undershirt is made of white cotton fabric (chiffon, linen, etc.). The decoration of the collar and cuffs (cuffs) can be made of colored percale, marshmallow or decorated with embroidery. Layout of patterns on fabric is carried out in the same order as for a blouse. The only difference is that here they add 6 cm to the back for gathering and 3 cm for the fold to the front. First of all, the wedges are sewn to the sleeves using a sewing seam, then the cuffs are adjusted. Stitching cuffs (cuffs). The cuff is placed facing the inside of the sleeve, stitched 0.5 cm from the edge. After stitching, the cuff is folded onto the front side of the sleeve, its upper edge is folded 0.5 cm and stitched 0.2 cm from the folded edge. Stitching and stitching of chest straps. The cut out breastplates are basted and stitched until the cut is notched. First, they are attached with the face to the wrong side of the right side of the shirt, then they are turned to the front side, edged with a placket so that the bottom layer is not visible, and basted along the bend. The trimmed edge of the right back is folded 0.5 cm, basted and stitched 0.2 cm from the folded edge, maintaining the same width throughout the entire length of the strip. The left breastplate is treated in the same way. The bottom of the left plank is sealed with a toe, and when bending the edge of the cape, you must ensure that the corners of the cape are exactly in the middle of the plank. At the end of the cut, an incision is made to the left side along the transverse thread so that the left bar can freely lie on the right one. The base is used to create excess width of the material, which is laid in an even fold under the toe of the left bar. The left bar is placed on the right one, covering it completely. The cape is sewn in a circle 0.2 cm wide from the edge of its hem. The cape of the left bar is sewn with two more transverse lines: the first at a distance of 4 cm from the corner of the cape, the second 0.5 cm above the first. Attaching the yoke to the back. The lower part of the yokes is basted and sewn to the upper section of the shirt, facing the wrong side. Then the upper part of the yoke is folded right sides together with the base and the lower yoke - the collar and shoulder seams of the shirt, basted starting from the left shoulder to the right, and stitched along the shoulder section, neckline and the other shoulder (from the right to the left). Carefully stitch around the slats and turn the yoke right side out, straighten the corners and stitch again along the top of the shoulder and neckline. Then fold the bottom of the upper yoke by 0.5 cm, covering the stitching seam of the lower yoke, and sew along the top 0.1 cm from the folded edge. The sleeve is sewn in the same way as a shirt, using a closed seam. Stitching and sewing of the side seams is also done using a sewing seam (as with a shirt) until the side vents are notched, which are sealed with gussets. The bottom of the shirt is hemmed with a 0.5 cm hem.

Making a braid

A shirt with a slanted collar is not only festive, but also everyday work wear, which is why it should not hinder movement. Therefore, a loose, non-tight fit is preferable. The oblique collar prevented the pectoral cross from falling out when tilted; this feature gave the name to the shirt - kosovorotka.

Patterning a blouse for a man or boy, further sewing and finishing will become an interesting experience for you in creating a folk costume. The simplicity of the kosovorotka does not require any special sewing skills. It is enough to have an initial level of knowledge about cutting clothes and sewing.

There were and remain five main elements of the kosovorotka. This is how the Russian folk men's shirt was created, the pattern was simple:

– Tulovo (stanovina). The main, largest element. - Sleeves. According to the rules, they are cut in a rectangular shape. In traditional tailoring, the rectangular cut of the blouse elements saved fabric: there were no scraps, with the exception of the collar cutout (it was left for patches). - Barrel. Side insert. Two side panels increased the circular volume of clothing to the desired size. The peasant weaving mill did not allow weaving fabric wider than 50-80 centimeters. This was not enough for the width of the shirt. Therefore, the peasant women supplemented the missing width with side inserts. - Gusset. The underarm insert prevented clothes from riding up when raising your arms up during everyday work. – Decorative elements. A spacer connected the sleeve and body. At the same time as the embroidered collar, it was part of the embroidery. The collar, if present, was also trimmed with ornamental embroidery. There are two options for finishing the collar of a shirt: a stand-up collar or without a collar (hollow neck).

Creating a braided shirt with your own hands begins with cutting. As we clarified, all the details of the shirt are rectangles. To start cutting, we calculate the main parameters - the length and width of each part of the shirt:

• Calculate the length of the body based on height. The canvas is cut in one piece, the so-called wall. Measure the wall to 2 lengths of the product.
• Measure the length of the barrels according to the following scheme: from the length of the shirt, subtract the length of the sleeve opening - the armhole. The width of the side element depends on the overall width of the body. It roughly looks like this: the wider the frame, the narrower the side. Everything is individually sized. On average, with a frame width of 40 centimeters, the width of the barrel will be 60 centimeters.
• Cut the sleeve 65 centimeters wide with an armhole of 30-32 centimeters. Calculate sleeve length like this: subtract shoulder width from arm length.
• The gusset is cut out as a square. The width of the side of the fabric square is approximately 15-20 centimeters.

Next we will tell you how to sew a Russian folk shirt:

• First of all, you take the main element of the shirt - the frame. Fold a piece of fabric in half. At the fold, cut out the neckline symmetrically. Calculate the width of the neck based on the volume of the child's head. Leave a margin of 2.5 centimeters for the spacer. And you sweep away the frame with a couple of barrels.
• Then sew the sleeves lengthwise. At the stitched end of the sleeves, leave small working edges for attaching the edges of the gussets.
• Sew the sleeves and body. Then sew in the gussets. If you have planned a shirt with a beautiful spacer where the sleeves and the frame are sewn together, attach the spacers. You can decorate this element with embroidery or scarlet fabric.

That's it, the draft version of the shirt with a slanted collar is ready. Now you know how to sew a shirt for a boy. All that remains is to decorate the clothes in accordance with Russian traditions.

DIY Russian folk costume patterns

The patterns we have collected will help you sew a Russian folk costume for any height. Even those who have never dealt with sewing can sew a Russian folk costume using patterns.

We complement the shirt with accessories

A traditional Russian kosovorotka sewn by you will decorate an adult or child at a festival, concert or children's party. Sewing a Russian shirt for a boy and then adding some color to the look is a great idea. Therefore, decorate your shirt and make it a bright element of your stage image:

• Process and decorate the gate post (neck). Use wide braid with ornaments, satin, trim, and bright fabric inserts.
• Hem a thick lining under the set-in placket. You decorate the set-in strip itself according to the example of the collar trim.
• Use shanked buttons or hooks as fasteners. Their number depends on the tailor’s imagination. The fasteners can be located along the set-in placket or only on the stand-up collar. For a children's shirt, you can sew Velcro as a fastener.
• We frame the ends of the sleeves with small folds outward, no more than 1 centimeter wide. To trim the bottom edge of the sleeves, use the same component as for decorating the collar.
• Hem the hem. Decorate it with a wide braid, spacers decorated with embroidered patterns, or a bright strip of fabric.

An important element of the national costume is the belt. You can weave it with oblique weaving in several rows of thick woolen threads. Or sew it from fabric and decorate it with wide braid or trim.

A headdress - a cap or cap - can be an addition to the folklore image.

Making the neck and clasp

You have a finished shirt, but you still need to work on the neckline and clasp. The work is troublesome, but small.

First make the clasp. Its length is 15 cm. To process the clasp, cut out two rectangles:

• first - 20 x 5.5 cm;
• the second (slightly wider) - 20 x 10 cm.

Sew a narrow strip to the left edge of the neckline and fold it inside the shirt. A wide strip should be sewn on the right side of the neckline. When the blouse is put on the child’s body, the wide side will be on the left side - Velcro will be attached to it.

Fold the wide strip in half and wrap it inside the shirt. Now secure all the parts with the outer seam. Now you can do the neckline. Cut out a piece measuring 8 x 40 cm, fold the edges in by a centimeter and iron them. Fold it in half and go over it with the iron again.

Sew the neckline to the neckline using a hand stitch and then machine stitch it. So the stand-up collar in the Russian folk style is ready! Now all that remains is to decorate our kosovorotka with a ribbon with a native Russian pattern. It will not only decorate clothes, but will also hide irregularities if they happen by chance.

We complete the image - apply makeup

So, you are preparing a costume for a holiday or concert performance. At the same time, you can brightly complement the folklore image. This is easy to do with the help of special paints - face painting or regular theatrical makeup.

Theatrical makeup is made on a fat basis - lanolin, Vaseline, beeswax. To create a children's image in a folklore style, face painting is better suited. Its water-based paints are safe for children's skin. You can remove face painting with plain water. Whereas theatrical makeup is removed from the face using special means.

As a rule, folk makeup involves a bright blush on the cheeks and large orange freckles. You can line your eyes and lips a little for expressiveness. The main thing is to know moderation in everything.

The shirt is sewn, the cap is twisted at the back of the head, folk makeup is applied. Now the image is ready!

DIY Russian folk shirt for a boy:

The pattern is very simple, so you can cut it directly on the fabric or first draw it on a newspaper. Just be sure to allow for seam allowances and hem allowances for the sleeves and bottom of the shirt.

After cutting we have: One main part, two sleeves and two gussets. We start sewing from the sleeves. We attach a gusset to the edge of the sleeve. Now we attach the sleeve with a stitched gusset to the main part of the shirt and sew it on by machine. To prevent the fabric from moving out of the sleeve, we first secure it with needles or sew it with a “forward needle” seam. After this, fold the shirt as in the picture and sew the sleeve and gusset.

We also sew the side part of the main part.

Sew the second sleeve in the same way. We process the seams using an overlog or manually.

We bend the edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt.

Iron and stitch.

The braid is almost ready. It remains to process the neck and clasp on the left side. This is a small, but troublesome and delicate job.

DIY braid for a boy: detailed instructions for beginning needlewomen

Today, there are a lot of children's events that are celebrated in the Slavic style. Maslenitsa, New Year, farewell to autumn and many others. Children must be dressed in national costumes. If your son is invited to such a celebration, he will need to dress in traditional clothing, including a special shirt. Sewing a shirt for a boy with your own hands is very simple.

A kosovorotka is a piece of clothing that was worn both on weekdays and on holidays in Rus'. It got its name because of the peculiar location of the collar - on the side of the neck. This cut was invented so that the pectoral cross would not fall out during work. The shirt was not tucked into the trousers, but was belted in a special way. Such shirts were made from satin, silk or linen. The edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt were embroidered with woven patterns. Thanks to the photo guide below, you can easily create this element of Russian folk clothing.

Shirt neck

Let's start with the clasp. The length of the fastener is 15 cm. To process it, cut out two rectangles. One is 20 x 5.5 cm. The second is wider 20 x 10 cm.

We sew a narrow strip on the left side (the left side if you look at the photo).

We wrap it inside the shirt.

We sew a wide strip to the right edge of the neckline (to the right, if you look at the photo. If you put the shirt on yourself, this will be the left side). The linden will be attached to it.

We fold the wide strip in half and wrap it inside the shirt.

We secure all the parts with an external seam. Now let's process the neck - the stand. Cut out a piece 8 x 40 cm. Fold the edges 1 cm and iron them.

Fold it in half and iron it again.

Using a hand stitch “forward with a needle” we sew the stand to the neck. Let's stitch it on the machine. The stand-up collar for a shirt in the Russian style is ready. At this stage, the braid looks like this. All that remains is to decorate the shirt with a ribbon with a Russian pattern. If there are any unevenness, the tape will hide it. Sew linden onto the inside of the fastener. For the belt, cut out a piece 8 x 90 cm. Combine it with a wide ribbon. Let's stitch. My belt is short because it fastens with a hook. If you tie it, make it at least 120 cm. The result should be a Russian folk shirt, a blouse for a boy, sewn with your own hands.

Clasp

One of the main parts of a shirt is its clasp. It can be made with either Velcro or buttons. A strip 15 cm long is cut out. It includes two rectangles. One measures 20 x 5.5 cm, and the second is wider - 20 x 10 cm.

A narrow strip is sewn to the left edge of the shirt's neckline and folded inside. The wide part is applied to the right side of the neckline and is also wrapped inside the shirt. Next, the top seam edges all the parts.

The main neckline of the shirt will be on the left side. This will make it easier for your child to unfasten Velcro or fasten buttons.

Making a braid

A shirt with a slanted collar is not only festive, but also everyday work wear, which is why it should not hinder movement. Therefore, a loose, non-tight fit is preferable. The oblique collar prevented the pectoral cross from falling out when tilted; this feature gave the name to the shirt - kosovorotka.

Patterning a blouse for a man or boy, further sewing and finishing will become an interesting experience for you in creating a folk costume. The simplicity of the kosovorotka does not require any special sewing skills. It is enough to have an initial level of knowledge about cutting clothes and sewing.

There were and remain five main elements of the kosovorotka. This is how the Russian folk men's shirt was created, the pattern was simple:

– Tulovo (stanovina). The main, largest element. - Sleeves. According to the rules, they are cut in a rectangular shape. In traditional tailoring, the rectangular cut of the blouse elements saved fabric: there were no scraps, with the exception of the collar cutout (it was left for patches). - Barrel. Side insert. Two side panels increased the circular volume of clothing to the desired size. The peasant weaving mill did not allow weaving fabric wider than 50-80 centimeters. This was not enough for the width of the shirt. Therefore, the peasant women supplemented the missing width with side inserts. - Gusset. The underarm insert prevented clothes from riding up when raising your arms up during everyday work. – Decorative elements. A spacer connected the sleeve and body. At the same time as the embroidered collar, it was part of the embroidery. The collar, if present, was also trimmed with ornamental embroidery. There are two options for finishing the collar of a shirt: a stand-up collar or without a collar (hollow neck).

Creating a braided shirt with your own hands begins with cutting. As we clarified, all the details of the shirt are rectangles. To start cutting, we calculate the main parameters - the length and width of each part of the shirt:

• Calculate the length of the body based on height. The canvas is cut in one piece, the so-called wall. Measure the wall to 2 lengths of the product.
• Measure the length of the barrels according to the following scheme: from the length of the shirt, subtract the length of the sleeve opening - the armhole. The width of the side element depends on the overall width of the body. It roughly looks like this: the wider the frame, the narrower the side. Everything is individually sized. On average, with a frame width of 40 centimeters, the width of the barrel will be 60 centimeters.
• Cut the sleeve 65 centimeters wide with an armhole of 30-32 centimeters. Calculate sleeve length like this: subtract shoulder width from arm length.
• The gusset is cut out as a square. The width of the side of the fabric square is approximately 15-20 centimeters.

Next we will tell you how to sew a Russian folk shirt:

• First of all, you take the main element of the shirt - the frame. Fold a piece of fabric in half. At the fold, cut out the neckline symmetrically. Calculate the width of the neck based on the volume of the child's head. Leave a margin of 2.5 centimeters for the spacer. And you sweep away the frame with a couple of barrels.
• Then sew the sleeves lengthwise. At the stitched end of the sleeves, leave small working edges for attaching the edges of the gussets.
• Sew the sleeves and body. Then sew in the gussets. If you have planned a shirt with a beautiful spacer where the sleeves and the frame are sewn together, attach the spacers. You can decorate this element with embroidery or scarlet fabric.

That's it, the draft version of the shirt with a slanted collar is ready. Now you know how to sew a shirt for a boy. All that remains is to decorate the clothes in accordance with Russian traditions.

DIY Russian folk costume for girls

1. Making a sundress for Russian folk costume is quite simple. First, we take measurements from the child. The sundress of a Russian costume consists of:

1. front panel 1 piece;
2. back panels 1 piece;
3. straps 2 parts;
4. inserts 2 parts;
5. plating of the upper part 2 parts.

The pattern below is prepared for children with a height of 120 to 140 centimeters.

This pattern must be transferred to the selected material and cut out. The material must be chosen in red, blue or orange colors. Pay attention to the brightness of the fabric. Such material should emphasize the peculiarity of the Russian costume.

We begin to assemble our costume according to the following algorithm:

1. First, we sew together the elements of the front, back and inserts on the sides;
2. then the top;
3. sew the straps;
4. We decorate the edges of the suit's sundress with red fabric.
5. Russian folk costume is ready.

DIY kokoshnik for Russian costume

Kokoshnik is a headdress worn on holidays in Rus'. Only married women could wear it. All this began in the 16th century. The kokoshnik looked like a high crown, to which a cloth was attached, behind which the hair was hidden.

Making a kokoshnik with your own hands is not a problem if you have the desire and the necessary materials:

1. cardboard;
2. textile;
3. scissors;
4. glue;
5. accessories: lace, braid, rhinestones;
6. tape measure.

First we need to make the base for the kokoshnik. We will make it from cardboard. Please note that the kokoshnik should go from ear to ear across the forehead. This is the algorithm you use to measure distance.

Next we need to cover the front of the kokoshnik with fabric. To do this, we place the kokoshnik on the fabric, step back 2-3 centimeters from each edge and draw a contour. Next, we cut along the contour and begin the constriction. We use glue to secure the fabric. At the same stage, we glue the tape that will support the kokoshnik on the head.

Now let's move on to the decorative aspect. We take the fittings that you have chosen for the kokoshnik and finish the front.

The kokoshnik is ready!

DIY kokoshnik for Russian costume photo

We complement the shirt with accessories

A traditional Russian kosovorotka sewn by you will decorate an adult or child at a festival, concert or children's party. Sewing a Russian shirt for a boy and then adding some color to the look is a great idea. Therefore, decorate your shirt and make it a bright element of your stage image:

• Process and decorate the gate post (neck). Use wide braid with ornaments, satin, trim, and bright fabric inserts.
• Hem a thick lining under the set-in placket. You decorate the set-in strip itself according to the example of the collar trim.
• Use shanked buttons or hooks as fasteners. Their number depends on the tailor’s imagination. The fasteners can be located along the set-in placket or only on the stand-up collar. For a children's shirt, you can sew Velcro as a fastener.
• We frame the ends of the sleeves with small folds outward, no more than 1 centimeter wide. To trim the bottom edge of the sleeves, use the same component as for decorating the collar.
• Hem the hem. Decorate it with a wide braid, spacers decorated with embroidered patterns, or a bright strip of fabric.

An important element of the national costume is the belt. You can weave it with oblique weaving in several rows of thick woolen threads. Or sew it from fabric and decorate it with wide braid or trim.

A headdress - a cap or cap - can be an addition to the folklore image.

MEN'S BRIDADY - HISTORICAL CUT

The folk shirt with a bias collar originated in the Middle Ages. The reason for its appearance cannot be explained by fashion trends: in ancient times everything was determined by expediency. D. S. Likhachev suggested that the oblique collar prevented the pectoral cross, a very personal item not intended for display, from falling into the armhole during work. The academician’s idea was picked up by other researchers of folk culture as the only objective one for peasant life.

Today, a shirt with a slanted collar is a fashionable wardrobe item. Surprisingly, women and girls want to buy a blouse even more often than men: they are attracted by the beauty of the pattern, the trendy cut, and the comfort of the outfit. This cannot be considered a departure from tradition: the Russian folk shirt has returned to its ancient universal purpose, which was inherent to it originally.

If you know the basics of sewing, then you can sew a shirt yourself. Next, I will tell you how, using the example of an old (before the 19th century) style, reconstructed from the clothing of Altai Old Believers.

Shirt elements, cutting

All elements are rectangular, so to cut them it is enough to calculate the length and width.

• Frame (body): a single piece (wall) is cut from the canvas in 2 lengths of the product.
• Barrels. The length of the barrel is calculated using the formula: subtract the length of the armhole from the length of the product. The width of the barrel is: with a frame width of 40 cm - 60 cm, 60 cm - 45 cm, 80 cm - 30 cm. The dimensions are approximate; for a traditional product they are calculated so that the total width of the shirt is 1 m ± 10 - 15 cm. If You don’t need such a loose fit, just choose your own comfortable option.
• Sleeves were traditionally made 60 cm wide for an armhole 30 cm deep. The length was calculated as follows: the shoulder width was subtracted from the length of the arm, which for a man with a size 48 - 50 was 70 cm.
• The gusset was cut into a square of 15 by 15 cm, if necessary - larger, up to 20 by 20 cm.

Folk shirt: assembly

First, the frame is sewn together with the barrels. Fold the frame in half, find the middle, cut out the neck, putting 2 cm forward and back.

Next, the sleeves are sewn together, leaving a free edge for attaching the gusset. The frame is sewn onto them, and after the sleeves they are sewn onto the barrels, and a gusset insert is sewn in. If desired, a spacer is attached to the sleeve seam - red decorative fabric, often with embroidery. In the past, when a men's blouse wore out, the spacer was torn off to be used in a new product.

Next, we process the neckline with bias tape, trim it with red tape, and sew on buttons or hooks. At the ends of the sleeves we lay small folds of 0.5 cm, directing them forward, and trim the edges with braid or bright fabric.

We trim the hem of the shirt and trim it with a “glade” - an embroidered spacer - or simply with braid or bright fabric.

Despite the simplicity of the cut, not all even experienced seamstresses turn out the Russian folk shirt as it should the first time. Don't despair - with experience everything will work out. The assortment of the Ivanka store will help you get inspired, where blouses and shirts in the Slavic style are presented in a variety of ways: from the most ancient styles with a straight slit on the chest to complex later versions.

We complete the image - apply makeup

So, you are preparing a costume for a holiday or concert performance. At the same time, you can brightly complement the folklore image. This is easy to do with the help of special paints - face painting or regular theatrical makeup.

Theatrical makeup is made on a fat basis - lanolin, Vaseline, beeswax. To create a children's image in a folklore style, face painting is better suited. Its water-based paints are safe for children's skin. You can remove face painting with plain water. Whereas theatrical makeup is removed from the face using special means.

As a rule, folk makeup involves a bright blush on the cheeks and large orange freckles. You can line your eyes and lips a little for expressiveness. The main thing is to know moderation in everything.

The shirt is sewn, the cap is twisted at the back of the head, folk makeup is applied. Now the image is ready!