In recent seasons, the peplum skirt has taken a leading place on the catwalks of the world. Not only designers, but also ordinary girls loved her. A dress, blouse, skirt and even trousers with a peplum are the choice of modern fashionistas.
The popular trend today originated in Spain and was an element of the Basque costume - hence its name. In the 17th century, French men also decorated their clothes with peplums. Spanish fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga turned to the history of fashion and began to use this element in his sketches. In the post-war years, Christian Dior created an incredibly feminine look by combining a full skirt with a fitted peplum jacket.
This year, the peplum adorns the collections of absolutely all women's clothing stores. Designers design it in the form of lush bows or miniature wings, a light wave or a strict geometric line. It’s easy to replenish your wardrobe with a fashionable and relevant item without significant expenses - you can sew a skirt with a peplum yourself. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to be an experienced needlewoman for this.
Design idea
Implementation begins with an idea. Therefore, before you start sewing, you need to create an image of the future item. To do this, you need to answer simple questions:
- when to wear?
- where to wear?
- how often to wear?
- what to combine with?
The answers will help you decide what the product will be. For example, if you want to wear a peplum skirt in the summer, you will need to purchase thin summer material at a fabric store. The place where you want to wear the item, as well as the desired frequency of wear, will determine the color, length, presence or absence of trim. The question “what to combine with?” should be decisive, because the key to a good wardrobe is the availability of sets. If you have a favorite blouse in a pleasant color in your closet, the material for the future peplum skirt should be selected either in tone or in a contrasting shade.
Peplum skirt pattern
So, the material has been purchased, threads and needles are in stock. The creation of any thing begins with a pattern. In order to draw it, you will need only 3 measurements: half-waist girth, half-hip girth and length of the product. Having taken these indicators, you can get to work. To make the drawing task easier, you can use graph paper.
- The pattern of a skirt with a peplum (Fig. 1) is built on the principle of a simple skirt, with the only exception that the peplum pattern is also designed. To begin with, draw a rectangle ABCD.
- Moreover, the length of sides AB and DC is equal to the half-circumference of the hips + 1 cm - this will be the width.
- The length of sides AD and BC is determined by the desired length of the product.
- From point A to the right we lay half of the segment AB, put a point T. From it we lower the perpendicular downwards until it intersects with the line DC.
- To build a hip line, we put 20 cm down from points A, T and B. We connect the resulting points L, L1, L2 with a dotted line.
- To calculate the depth of the darts at the waist line, it is necessary to subtract the half-circumference of the waist +1 cm from the half-circumference of the hips +1 cm. We divide the resulting number in half - this will be the value of the side dart, front = 3 cm. To obtain the value of the rear dart, it is necessary from the received numbers subtract the sum of the sizes of the side and front darts.
- When constructing a drawing from point T to the right and left, set aside half the value of the side dart. We connect them with a dotted line with line L1, divide their side lines in half and measure 0.5 cm towards line TL1. From point 1 upward we measure 1 cm - this is point 1.
- To build a front dart, you need to set aside 5 cm from the side line to the left and draw a perpendicular straight line down. Then, from the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the waist line in both directions, set aside half the depth of the front dart - 1.5 cm - this is point 1.5. The lower end of the dart should be moved 0.5 cm towards the side seam. The length of the dart is 9-10 cm.
- When constructing the back dart, we divide the AT line in half and from the division point to the right and left we set aside half of the resulting value (the remainder of the difference), these are points 2. The length of the back dart is 12-13 cm.
- To construct the waistline of the back half of the peplum skirt, connect points 1 and 2.
- To construct the waist line of the front half of the skirt, connect points 1 and 1.5.
Important! If the difference between the half-circumference of the hips with an increase and the half-circumference of the waist with an increase is more than 14 cm, 2 darts must be made on the back half of the peplum skirt. The first is at a distance of 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, 3-4 cm wide and 13-15 cm long. Divide the remaining distance in half - this is where the second dart will be. Its width is 2-3 cm, length 12-13 cm.
- The peplum pattern is based on the example of Fig. 2. The radius of the pattern is 1/6 of the waist circumference -1 cm.
- A semicircle is constructed as shown in the figure.
- Then we put the length of the peplum down and draw a second semicircle.
Source: korfiati.ru
How to model a removable peplum with your own hands without a pattern for a skirt, blouse or dress
How to model a removable peplum with your own hands without a pattern for a skirt, blouse or dress. Our theme today is the Basque fashion element. The famous couturier Cristobal Balenciaga, originally from Spain, paying tribute to the Basque people, introduced the Basque to the world on the catwalk in the 20th century. Christian Dior developed an entire collection based on this element. The peplum is an additional element of clothing, which was originally purely masculine and adorned the vests of the stronger sex; women began to decorate their bodices with peplum. Thanks to the peplum, your silhouette visually lengthens and your waist becomes narrower.
There is a huge variety of basques in modern fashion. With a peplum you can sew a blouse, a skirt, a dress and a jacket. Basques have the most incredible shapes and sizes. In order to follow the fashion for peplums, it is not at all necessary to make a collection of patterns of various peplums for every occasion; it is enough to understand the principle of peplum modeling and you will have a ready-made pattern any time you want. Therefore, my task today is to show you not just a model of any one basque, but to convey to you the very principle of modeling any shape and style of basque.
Many people think that the peplum is an element of festive clothing, but this is not entirely true; the peplum can be made a removable element and used according to the mood. The removable peplum can be attached to a button, a button or strings and tied with a bow.
The peplum is used by modern fashion designers in a wide variety of models. Here are several options for models with basques. Pay attention to the white lace blouse with a peplum, the bodice of the blouse is made of lace, and from the waist line we see a peplum made of fabric covered with lace, but this photo shows such an important point as the fact that this peplum is not split, as happens, but solid , however, in the abdominal area it is not so flared that unnecessary folds are created, so that there is no excess volume, and on the sides it is more flared. In the same way, this peplum from the back can be more or less flared and still be solid, how to achieve this?
Models with peplum
White lace blouse with peplum
We'll talk about this a little later, but for now pay attention to the second option - a double basque.
What is interesting about this model? One part of the peplum is absolutely simple, then a more figured peplum goes on top of it and it is folded on the sides, a very interesting option, how can you make such a peplum yourself without an additional pattern from a magazine? We must learn to understand the cut and the general principle of constructing a peplum. This is what you and I will learn today. Another version of the peplum in the photo is a model of a red leather dress with a peplum.
Basques in modern fashion
And now we will model a removable peplum using the example of our mannequin with a waist of 68 cm, and you will measure the waist that will be necessary for your peplum. You will have to imagine the style of the peplum that your imagination suggests: asymmetrical, flared combined with folds, etc. or it will be a choice based on a picture from a fashion magazine.
Skirt with peplum and reliefs. Let's model.
to create a peplum pattern, measure your waist and determine the front and back size of the peplum
When we have measured the waist circumference, we need to take 1/2 of the waist circumference, in our case 1/2 of 68 cm = 34 cm. Then we can draw a line on the mannequin for the desired shape of the peplum, for example, we will now build a model of a removable peplum with rounded edges and the bottom line will go to the back a little longer than the bottom line of the front of the peplum, let's roughly see what length suits us and write down this indicator. Front length = 13 cm, back length = 28 cm We will build such a peplum now, it will be flared. In front of you is a sheet of paper on which we need to set aside 1/2 of the waist circumference = 34 cm. We mark the length of the peplum along the line of the center of the back = 28 cm. Along the line of the center of the front we mark 13 cm, and you can take those numbers that will be interesting to you.
Now we need to connect the point 13 cm of the center of the front with the point of 28 cm of the center of the back with a very beautiful smooth line, this line will be the bottom line of our peplum and cut out the paper pattern.
We mark our dimensions on paper and draw a line for the expected shape of the peplum
In order to turn this paper pattern into a real flared peplum pattern, we need to make several cuts and then open these cuts to the required width.
We open the pattern and lay it out on the fabric so that the line of the center of the back is exactly along the grain thread, but you can also lay out the pattern along the bias thread, from the corner, like a half-sun. However, I lay out the first strip with an offset so that my peplum immediately begins to flare.
make arbitrary cuts and open the pattern to the required width
If you need to put a fold somewhere on the peplum, you will cut the paper pattern in exactly the same way and spread it out exactly as much as you need, for example, 12 cm, and then on the fabric you will put the fold you have in mind, of any shape, any asymmetry.
The style of your peplum will depend only on you, whether it will be asymmetrical, very flared, with folds, without folds, cut from an angle along the bias, any flare and length, with different lengths in front and back, it can be sewn into a belt, along the waist line jacket, skirt, dress, blouse, be a removable element - as you want, everything will depend only on your taste and imagination.
We pinned the pattern onto the fabric and cut out the shape that suits us. We make a notch along the line of the center of the back.
Modeling a peplum for a skirt
cut out the peplum and mark the center of the back with a notch
When you start cutting out the peplum on the fabric, you should focus on the long ends of the paper pattern, this is important so that the bottom line of the peplum has a smooth edge.
cut the bottom line, focusing on the longer angle of the paper pattern
When the peplum pattern is ready, you need to check on the figure whether everything in this shape suits you or whether you need to make some adjustments.
Skirt with Basques.
This is what the peplum pattern looks like
I hope that your version will not be a complete copy of my peplum version, since this is one of many possible options, shown to you as an example and to understand the essence of peplum modeling. In the photo of the peplum and the belt, the line of the center of the back is marked on them; along these lines we connect our parts. The belt has marks both along the center of the back and markings for the end of the peplum, all these marks are made directly on the mannequin, so there was no need to take additional measurements to make these marks.
connect the belt with the peplum, check the notches along the line of the center of the back
Such a peplum definitely needs to be packed with a lining, so I recommend that you look at the topic How to pack a shuttlecock with a lining*.
In this topic, I would like to convey to you the idea that working with a peplum is a creative approach and imagination, since you are free to do as you want - change the shape, make it removable, wear it not in the center with a clasp, but, for example, Turn the fastener towards the side seam.
modeling a removable basque
options for working with peplum
A removable peplum is always very luxurious! Be varied, it's much better than constantly wearing faceless jersey T-shirts.
Basque is always luxurious!
Decorate yourself, decorate the world with you, enjoy life, delight the people around you with your beautiful outfits. You can see models with basques on our channel in the review of ready-made items at the link **
All the best, Irina Mikhailovna Paukshte and Alexey Yastrebov were with you!
DIY peplum skirt
For sewing beginners, there is another, more accessible and quicker way to get a peplum skirt.
To do this, you need to take the fabric for the desired skirt and turn it inside out. Draw the silhouette of a pencil skirt or outline the finished product.
Leave seam allowances and cut out. We sew the side edges and the bottom contour of the product.
From the remaining fabric we cut out a wide, long strip - this will be the peplum.
The basque must be sewn in frequent folds so that the size of the resulting flounce is sufficient for the skirt. We mark the place where the fashion element will be located using tailor's chalk. The basque can be sewn on.
We bend and hem the upper part of the product. We sew in a zipper. The new peplum skirt is ready!
What to include in the kit?
The main task when creating an image that includes a peplum skirt is not to overload it. Such a model in itself is already a bright accent in the set, therefore, everything else should not conflict with it, but only successfully complement and emphasize. The top can be anything, the main thing is to remember some rules:
- If this is a T-shirt, then let it be the simplest and most monochromatic, without additional decorative elements. You can allow some kind of print - stripes or polka dots, but with extreme caution and provided that the skirt is minimalist, plain and modest.
- A blouse can act as a delimiter. Depending on its style and color, a skirt with peplums (photos are in the article) can be an element of a business, office wardrobe or an everyday, romantic style. It should not be too loose or long. It is best to choose fitted, semi-tight models that are tucked inside.
- Tops. They are relevant for young people who have an ideal figure with a flat tummy. Models can be varied, crop tops are especially popular now, but the skirt should also be appropriate.
- A jacket complete with a peplum is also acceptable, but you need to proceed with extreme caution. The multilayer effect is not welcome in this case. Choose shortened models, the same goes for outerwear (fur coats, down jackets, etc.).
Unusual solutions for a peplum skirt
When it comes to handicrafts, there is no limit to the flight of imagination! You can make your own peplum skirt even more unique and interesting. For example, try making the basque itself from a material of a contrasting shade - according to the principle of fashionable combinations of this season (pink skirt - yellow basque).
The second way to get creative with a fashionable element is variations on the theme of shapes. The peplum can be made oblique, long or short, with many folds or a light frill. Skirts with two or three short peplums are suitable for romantic young girls.
A skirt with a peplum is a bright, fashionable and eye-catching detail in a woman’s wardrobe. Many stylists include it in the list of musthaves - that is, those things that should be in the wardrobe of every representative of the fair sex. Incredibly feminine, a skirt with a peplum looks equally relevant in the office and on a date, at an informal friendly party and at a big celebration. It will certainly become a favorite item in the wardrobe and will allow its owner to always look spectacular. Follow fashion and create it yourself!
