Suit fabric - composition, characteristics, description of the material, how to choose a suit

What should the material for the suit be?

You can't skimp on things like this. A professional will immediately notice a cheap outfit, and the wearer will not be taken seriously. It’s better to pay a tidy sum for a suit and feel confident in any situation. The main thing is to choose a quality product that is made from a material that meets the requirements for it.

Suit fabrics must be:

shape-resistant: sagging knees on trousers or prominent elbows on a jacket make the look sloppy and cheap. Maintaining shape is the main requirement. This is achieved through special styles, the use of additional elements - shoulder pads, lining (in the area of sleeves, shelves or solid);
durable: such costume fabric cannot be torn without additional physical effort. Even on textured canvases with a convex relief, tightening is an extremely rare occurrence. The surface must also be abrasion resistant. The appearance of shiny areas is unacceptable even after 2-3 years of intensive use;
breathable: an important parameter, since a person wears clothes most of the day. Good ventilation will provide an optimal microclimate and protect against hypothermia and overheating;
hygroscopic: moisture should be quickly absorbed and not remain on the surface. Otherwise, a greenhouse effect is possible. And wet armpits will negatively affect your business reputation;
aesthetic: we are not talking about flashy decor, but about the appearance of textiles. Be sure to avoid pilling: cuffs, areas around pockets and buttons should remain smooth. High-quality coloring is also important. Even after several dry cleanings, the outfit should retain its rich color.

Good material does not create difficulties during work. This means that the threads can be easily moved apart and cut through, and the edges do not fray. Canvases with such characteristics help to minimize the percentage of defects.

The service life of suits made from quality materials is 3 years. But with proper care they will last longer.

Types and properties of fabric

A suit is a fabric for a trouser suit, women's or men's, as well as sewing skirts for a suit couple. You can sew a suit from any material, but, as fashion dictates, it is better to use more modern, adapted varieties for sewing this clothing.

Suit fabric

As in past times, the trend is in fabrics made from pure wool, mixtures with other fibers, linen, viscose, cotton and others. Fabric for sewing suits must meet certain criteria and established requirements. The properties of the suit are presented as follows:

high wear resistance;
strength and reliability;
beautiful appearance;
resistance to deformation;
ease of care.

Please note : The fabric for summer suits must allow air to pass through, and for winter suits it must retain heat. The suit is purchased for long-term use, therefore the requirements for the material are high. How long the suit will retain its attractive appearance depends on its quality.

There are the following types of suit fabrics::

Wool – is produced from pure wool fibers through various weaving methods. It is allowed to add up to 5% elastic fibers. If more synthetics are added - up to 60%, then it is called wool blend.

Wool for suit making

Stretch suiting fabric, the description of which seems to be wool with elastin. Products made from it stretch and do not wrinkle, fit perfectly on the figure, and are worn for a long time.
Pure cotton is rarely used for making suits. It is usually mixed with viscose, elastin and polyester.
Linen is a material that easily allows air to pass through and is used for sewing summer suits. Pure linen wrinkles a lot, so synthetic fibers are added to it.

Striped suit

Gabardine – has a relief pattern (ribbed) on both the front and back surfaces. The material is soft to the touch, but elastic and does not undergo deformation.
Denim is an ideal material for suits. Dense and durable, holds its shape well.
Barbie is a rough fabric with crepe weave fibers. It consists of polyester, but can also be made with viscose or elastane. The material is durable, but lends itself well to draping.
Tweed - contains wool. The fabric is thick and has a herringbone weave.

You might be interested in this: How to make a beautiful felt hat yourself

Suit material

This is not the entire list of popular fabrics for sewing suits. These options are most often used for sewing clothes.

Classification of suit fabrics

“Suit,” as textile workers affectionately call the fabric, is heterogeneous and includes many types of fabrics. There are several classifications based on different criteria.

By composition

On this basis the following are distinguished:

natural fabrics: cotton, linen, wool. Can be combined: cotton and silk are often added to wool. The percentage of products made from natural fibers is insignificant. Despite their high hygienic properties, they cannot boast of durability;
synthetic suiting fabrics: modern synthetics are not only wear-resistant, but also comfortable to wear. The textile industry offers samples that are not inferior in ventilation and moisture absorption to natural varieties. At the same time, they are easier to care for, do not wrinkle, and have a longer service life:
mixed suiting fabrics: a combination of natural and artificial fibers allows you to obtain options with good basic characteristics - stretchability, resistance to deformation. Most often polyester, elastane, viscose, lurex, and polyamide are added to natural threads.

The elastane content in the composition rarely exceeds 5-7%. This amount is quite enough so that the product does not lose its shape and does not hinder movements. In addition, the additive is expensive, so manufacturers use it sparingly.

Suit fabric structure of yarn and threads

This parameter has a greater impact on aesthetics. For the manufacture of the material the following are used:

twisted yarn: obtained by twisting 2 or more threads. Characterized by durability. High-quality twisting does not fall apart, so elongated loops and puffs rarely appear on the canvas;
melange: represents mixed threads that differ in composition, texture, and color. This yarn can combine cotton and mohair, wool and acrylic. There are a lot of varieties. In addition, fibers are taken that are dyed in different shades, which allows you to obtain interesting color solutions;
textured: made from polymers. It has porosity and friability. As a result, the fabric is soft and tactilely pleasant. Monofilament is characterized by strong crimp, which provides good elongation;
shaped suiting fabric: another name is fancy. Indeed, it allows you to embody the creative ideas of designers. The main feature is the presence of color, geometric, and volumetric effects. It is practically not created from natural threads, since achieving the effect from linen, silk, and cotton is quite problematic. Synthetics are responsible for the fantasy: microfiber, nylon, acrylic, lurex.

Do not confuse sectional and melange yarns. Melange is a combination of dyed threads. Sectioning is a combination of colorless fibers, which are then dyed using a special technology: dyes of different colors are applied to certain areas.

By color

Modern costumes are not similar to the outfits of past centuries, when preference was given to plain fabrics. Such varieties remain in demand in the textile market. But fashion has become much more democratic, and color schemes have become more diverse. All fabrics for tailoring suits are divided into several types according to the color scheme:

bleached fabrics: are treated with special compounds. The degree of whiteness for costume varieties is 70%. A light cream shade is allowed. Usually used for sewing summer clothes;
plain-dyed suiting fabrics: fabrics with a uniform, uniform shade. One of the most common varieties for sewing business clothes;
variegated: the pattern is determined at the weaving stage. Different threads are used in the warp and weft, resulting in stripes, raised jacquard patterns, checks, or diagonals. On smooth satin you can get shanzhan - a surface with iridescence;
printed: the design is applied to the finished canvas. For this, special templates and printing machines are used.

Materials with patterns and prints are usually used for casual clothing. It is not customary to go to serious official events (negotiations, symposiums).

Texture separation

Relevant for wool and wool mixtures. The structure of these paintings is heterogeneous. In the textile world there are 2 groups:

worsted suiting fabrics: there are almost 400 options. A distinctive feature is the rib. It can be small, large, straight or diagonal. It all depends on the weave used;
fine-woven suiting fabrics: the main feature is the presence of pile. This leads to quality characteristics - high heat-protective properties and pleasant tactility and softness.

Working with fine cloth is easy: the pile hides minor defects. Sewing from worsted counterparts is best left to a professional. The clear texture does not forgive mistakes.

Other criteria for dividing into groups

There are other parameters for classification.

Criteria	Groups
Weave	Twill or finely patterned is often used. Sometimes different types are combined, thereby achieving additional effects. Corduroy cord is made using pile weaving.
Special purpose	The appearance of materials and the requirements for them depend on this indicator. Holidays do not allow the use of low quality raw materials. Casual suits are more democratic. You can wear them to work every day. Uniforms are sewn specifically for representatives of certain professions.
Seasonality	A parameter that affects the main characteristics. Fabric for summer clothes should be light, hygroscopic and breathable. In winter options, these indicators are also supplemented by high heat-saving properties.

The weight of the first suits could reach 3 kg. Due to the improvement of fabrics and the emergence of new types of textiles, this figure was reduced by 2 times.

Types and characteristics of materials

Modern types of suit fabrics are becoming more diverse. Particular preference when sewing suits is given to the following materials.

Wool. Natural wool fiber is hollow inside, so wool fabrics allow air to pass through well and retain heat. Woolen fabric wrinkles little, is resistant to abrasion, elasticity, hygroscopicity, and high wear resistance. Manufacturers produce both very thin woolen fabrics for summer models, and thicker and warmer ones for winter suits. Some types of material are treated with a special Send Wash impregnation, which gives the fabric a “polishing” effect.

Wool mixture. In wool blend fabrics, synthetic polyester fibers are added to wool. This makes the material more durable and significantly reduces the cost of the product, although the thermal insulation qualities of such material are lower than those of wool.

Elegant women's suit

Wool with elastane. Suit fabric, which in addition to wool contains synthetic elastane fibers, eliminates the need for everyday ironing and stretching of trousers at the knees. Synthetic additives improve the basic qualities of wool, allowing clothes to maintain their shape, providing maximum comfort and a perfect fit. Typically, suit fabric contains 5-7% elastane.

Cashmere. Cashmere suit fabric is soft, light, tender and noble. Products made from this material save you from the cold in winter and from heat in summer, so they can be worn both in winter and in the warm season.

Gabardine. This fabric is distinguished by a small diagonal rib on the surface of the fabric. Gabardine is soft and elastic, resistant to deformation. Gabardine suit fabric is made from wool and viscose. In addition, there is a completely synthetic gabardine, cheap and easy to care for, used as a material for creating uniforms or workwear. This fabric is used to make suits for medical workers, employees of enterprises and public institutions.

Tiara. One of the most popular materials for sewing costumes. The fabric is soft and warm, does not restrict movement, and is easy to drape. The composition contains natural, artificial and synthetic fibers. Wool provides good thermal conductivity of the material, and polyester and elastane allow the product to retain its shape and not stretch.

Linen. For sewing summer suits, linen fabric is used, which perfectly allows air to pass through and absorbs moisture. Linen suits wrinkle a lot. This drawback can be avoided by choosing linen with the addition of synthetic fibers. Although a linen suit in a natural color with a slight wrinkle looks fashionable and respectable.

Denim. Dense, durable cotton material holds its shape well. Jeans are often used to sew women's, men's and children's suits.

Memory. Suit fabric made entirely of polyester fibers that can remember their shape and retain it. The material does not need ironing, is resistant to damage and repeated washing, and has a long-lasting color.

Why do you need lining in suits?

Lining is an essential element of jackets. It has important functions:

maintain the shape of the product and prevent it from stretching;
protect the main fabric from wear;
absorb excess moisture;
provide comfort: smooth fabric glides well and does not stick to the shirt. This jacket is easier to put on.

The price of the suit is also affected by the quality of the lining material. Trying to save money, you can choose something with a lining made of cheap fabric. Budget options include polyester, polyester, and acetate. But this applies to products in which the lining only protects the back, and the shelves remain single-layer.

In everyday sets, viscose is often used, which has good thermal insulation properties. Thanks to maintaining an optimal climate, such clothes are not cold in winter and not hot in summer.

Suits for formal events, the so-called going out outfits, involve the use of only expensive fabrics. Silk is often chosen for this purpose. The material looks expensive and rich, but sweat stains remain visible on it. For lovers of creativity, the textile industry offers a mixed version (made of viscose and acetate) - shanzhan. On the contrary, you want to show off such a lining to others, because the graceful tints and muted shine look very impressive.

Spesori will tell you about the quality of the suit material. The product label contains numbers and letters. For example, 120S. The higher the number, the higher the quality.

Wool

The composition includes an additive of synthetic components - elastane or polyester. This connection will provide the suit with resistance to wear, strength, and will help retain heat from the surface of the body.

Weaving of several types - twill, patterned and clothes.

Gabardine

A mixture of natural wool and cotton, linen or silk. Refers to expensive fabrics. A cheaper type of mixed fabric made of wool and polyester.

They retain heat less well, but are not inferior in strength and wear resistance.

The most commonly used in the clothing industry are:

1. Wool and elastane. Trousers made of this fabric will not stretch out at the knees and practically do not wrinkle.

2. Wool and viscose. Long-term deformation-resistant fabric with a diagonal rib on the surface.

3. Cheviot. Suit wool with viscose or cotton. Inexpensive, warm twill weave fabric.

Advantages of natural wool and blended fabrics:

Good air circulation and at the same time long-term retention of heat from the body.
Sweat and moisture are quickly absorbed and quickly evaporate.
Low creasing, practically no creases or wrinkles form on the surface. Therefore, wool fabric for jackets and trousers is an ideal solution.
Long term wear of items made from these materials.
Good resistance to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays.
The suits can withstand a large number of abrasion cycles.
Do not lose surface quality and color brightness when washed with aggressive chemicals.

Types of suit fabrics

The group with the collective name includes a variety of materials: both in composition and properties.

Group	Name	Description	Advantages	Flaws
Wool fabrics	Cashmere	Made from wool and down from Indian and Nepalese goats	High heat-saving properties. Softness, tenderness, and hypoallergenicity make cashmere pleasant to the skin. The canvas usually undergoes anti-pilling treatment, so there is no risk of pellets.	There may be a problem with cleaning. In most cases, even dry cleaning cannot remove old stains. Therefore, dirt must be removed while it is fresh.
	Gabardine	They are made either only from merino wool, or with the addition of viscose and cotton. A distinctive feature is a thin scar.	Warm, therefore suitable for the off-season and winter. Dense, but does not feel heavy. Keeps its shape perfectly.	Inconvenient to work with: the edges are very frayed. It is capricious when ironing and requires the mandatory use of gauze. Otherwise, you can damage the fabric irrevocably.
	Tweed	It is slightly hairy and has a characteristic herringbone pattern. Classic suits and Oxford-style models with leather inserts are made from tweed.	Durable, difficult to tear material. It rarely shows puffs. Has a pleasant tactility.	Since tweed is made from pure wool yarn, moths love it. High-quality fabric is also blamed for its high cost.
	Suit crepe	In addition to the wool base, the composition may contain acrylic, viscose, and sometimes cotton is added. It has an interesting grainy texture.	The crepe suit drapes easily and fits perfectly. Does not wrinkle or stretch.	It may lose color saturation over time, as it is sensitive to sunlight. In addition, some varieties shrink after the first wash.
	Diagonal	The name indicates a feature of the texture - a small diagonal rib.	Twill weave provides the fabric with strength and elasticity - it does not tear, but stretches well. Retains its shape during wear and does not fade in the sun.	The diagonal is almost flawless. There is only one nuance that causes dissatisfaction - the meager color palette. But for costumes you don’t need a multi-colored range of colors.
	Tights	It is characterized by a heterogeneous texture: a thin strip is noticeable on the surface.	Does not constrain movements, guaranteeing freedom of action. The fabric is available in several types of colors: melange, variegated, plain-dyed.	Slight shrinkage when washed.
	Covercott	Natural colors range from muted cream to dark brown shades. But there are also options painted in other colors.	High water-repellent properties with good breathability. Such outfits are not afraid of light rain. Does not wrinkle, which makes the fabric easier to care for.	Characterized by heavy weight. The material is too heavy.
Cotton fabrics	Velvet	There is a thick pile on the surface. It is small, but gives the canvas aristocracy and elegance. Panvelvet is considered elite. Chameleon varieties change shades depending on the lighting.	Wear-resistant and does not deform after washing. The velvet is dense, but does not feel heavy.	Gets dirty quickly. Literally attracts dust, small debris - threads, animal hair. Therefore it needs frequent cleaning.
Velveteen	Available in 2 varieties: cord and ribbed. The first one has thick stripes and is used for sewing winter clothes. The second is less dense, suitable for demi-season suits.	Good stretchability, resistance to stains, retains heat: you will never freeze in it.	Electrostatic, but can be eliminated using antistatic sprays and conditioners. Does not like strong spinning, which can damage the structure of the fabric.
Denim fabrics	Denim attracts with a variety of options. Jeans-linen is valued for its high hygienic properties. Young people often choose stretch, which stretches well and emphasizes all the curves of the figure. Silk denim attracts the eye with its glossy surface and lightness, although it is quite dense. Elite option - luxury jeans.	Jeans are always in trend, so high-quality material is appropriate in any situation.	The main advantages are strength and durability: products can last up to 5 years without losing their original characteristics. Moreover, the slight abrasion that occurs during wear adds charm.	The texture is somewhat rough, especially when the fabric is made from linen and cotton in equal proportions. After the first wash, denim may shrink.
Linen fabrics	Gozhka	In appearance it resembles a rough burlap due to the checkerboard weave. But it was precisely this nuance, with the light hand of Coco Chanel, that became the highlight of the fabric.	Does not deform, does not absorb odors. The fabric is difficult to tear.	Due to the loose structure, puffs may appear on the surface, so you need to be careful. Working with matting requires professionalism. Its ends are fraying a lot, you will have to take care of the strength and reliability of the seams.
Synthetic fabrics	Barbie	Made from polyester and spandex. In rare cases, the composition contains viscose or cotton.	The perfectly smooth texture ensures elegance. Barbies are used to make figure-flattering outfits. Suitable for sewing double-sided models.	Temperature changes affect the quality characteristics of the fabric: in extreme heat or cold, strength decreases. It is difficult to remove greasy stains from the surface, this is explained by the special structure of the fabric.
	Nicole	Polyester predominates (up to 70%), but there is also a large percentage of viscose (up to 30%). Elastane is often added.	It lends itself well to coloring and does not fade. Does not wrinkle, so does not need ironing.	Breathability cannot be called ideal. In hot weather, such clothes may be uncomfortable.
	tiar	The composition may contain wool, but more often it is replaced with viscose. The main percentage is polyester, including elastane additives.	Dense (indicators vary in the range of 360-530 g/sq. meter), but lightweight material. It drapes easily, so it is used to create things with pleating.	Requires special care, otherwise it quickly loses its presentable appearance.
	Angelica	It is a mixture of polyester and elastane.	Resistant to wear and abrasion. The velvety front surface enhances aesthetics. Matte shine gives nobility. Does not accumulate static electricity.	If the fabric has not been pre-decated, it will certainly shrink during the first wash.
	Memory	The polyester base can be supplemented with cotton fibers. But their content should not exceed 30%.	Memory effect material. Due to this, it does not deform, does not stretch, and always returns to its original state.	Memory cannot be called elastic, but suits made from this material still fit well, emphasizing its curves.
	Pikachu	Polyester is used as a basis. The composition may contain viscose, spandex, elastane.	For winter clothes, dense varieties are chosen. For summer ones - light, almost weightless. Soft, stretches well over the warp and weft, making it suitable for sewing tight-fitting items.	Thin clothing cannot boast good ventilation. The rayon varieties are less durable than other Pikachu options.

For formal men's suits, only pure wool is used. Women have a wider choice: velvet, linen, corduroy, and silk are added to wool.

Which fabric is best for a suit?

Natural wool is considered a traditional suit fabric. But the quality of the fabric has changed: 150 years ago a suit weighed about 3 kg, and one made from modern fabric will weigh half as much due to impurities and the thickness of the thread.

Today, the classic men's two-piece or three-piece suit: jacket, trousers and vest, is made from pure wool or wool blend fabrics. The range of fabrics for women's suits is wider. A status jacket and skirt can be ordered from knitwear, wool blend, silk and linen.

Wool fabrics

tweed - soft woolen fabric with a small pile;
cupra - thick woolen fabric with pile that forms various jacquard patterns;
gabardine - woolen fabric, type of weaving: complex twill. On the front side there is a small scar running at an angle of 60-70 degrees;
velor is a type of velvet made from wool. The pile is soft, long and thick. Based on knitted weave

Velvet

velvet is a fabric with dense soft short pile made of synthetic fibers or natural silk. Base: cotton or silk;
plush - velvet with a pile of more than 2 mm;
pleated - a type of velvet, long soft pile goes along the weft;
semi-velvet - cotton fabric with a small pile over the entire surface;
corduroy is a type of velvet. On the front surface there are ridges of pile along the weft;
corduroy is a type of velvet. Dense, durable fabric with thick, unkempt pile

Cotton

rep - cotton fabric with a rib covering both sides of the fabric;
cloth - fabric with or without pile. On the front side there is a thin layer of felt;
tartan - checkered cotton fabric;
denim, “denim” - cotton fabric of different thicknesses. May be with additives: lurex, lycra. Only the warp thread is dyed, and the weft most often remains white. The warp threads are visible on the front surface of the fabric, and the white weft is visible on the back;
diagonal - thick cotton fabric with ribs at an angle of 45 degrees on the front side

Synthetics, knitwear

spandex is a thick, soft knitted fabric. The front side has a pile or a jacquard pattern. The reverse side is smooth;
bouclé is a thick, coarse fabric. In manufacturing, fabric with small knots located at a short distance from each other is used;
jersey - thin soft knitwear. Keeps its shape well

Fabrics for uniforms

Special blended fabrics have been developed for employees of supermarkets, restaurants, and cleaning companies. The surface of the clothing is covered with a protective impregnation, and the inside is pleasant to the body. Workwear made from pure linen or cotton is rarely ordered. Despite their environmental friendliness, these fabrics are not practical to care for and add unnecessary worries to the employee.

Ask a Question

For bank employees and office workers, suits are ordered from premium fabrics: fine wool, cotton, linen. But preference is given to mixed ones. Sedentary work requires that trousers maintain their shape: not wrinkle too much, and not stretch out at the knees.

We will advise you on the range of premium professional fabrics, help you navigate through licensed fabrics in the budget segment, and give recommendations on product care.

Learning to choose the right suit and not make mistakes with colors

Classic colors for men's and women's suits are:

Black: strict and solemn. Recommended for formal events only. Not suitable for everyday wear.
Dark grey: a versatile option that goes well with any shade. Can be worn every day. Women can experiment with colors: pearl, wet asphalt, marengo, metallic. The perfect color for summer.
Dark blue: classic – quite strict, but at the same time democratic. Such suits are appropriate both at a celebration and in a daily business setting.

It is better not to wear a brown suit if you are planning a formal reception or a job interview. This color is not yet included in the classic group, although there are no strict prohibitions on its use. It is better to replace it with beige (relevant for summer), shades of deep chocolate - recommended for brunettes.

You cannot choose red business attire. Men can replace this color with wine. Women – smoky pink. White is used in doses. It is not suitable for every day, as it will quickly lose its attractiveness.

Light shades make a person look younger. Deep tones give the image authority.

Features of care

The composition is of great importance:

It is advisable to dry-clean woolen and wool-blend suits. They cannot be washed. It is allowed to remove stuck debris with a soft brush. Treatment with anti-moth products is required.
Linen ones can be washed by yourself. For colored suit fabrics, the temperature should not exceed +40 degrees. For unpainted ones, +90 degrees is allowed. Use a gentle machine spin. You can steam it. Ironing is only allowed from the inside out.
Denim varieties are easy to care for. Machine washable. Dry flat. Otherwise, creases will appear that are difficult to get rid of.
Synthetics are easy to care for. Wash at temperature + 30-40 degrees. The soleplate of the iron should not be hot - the fibers may melt. Although many of the synthetic types do not require ironing.

A huge variety of suit fabrics allows you to find an option suitable for any time of year and different settings. Each buyer can choose a material depending on the intended purpose, appearance, and fashion preferences.

Caring for suit crepe

Delicate care will help you wear crepe suits for a long time. It is important to follow the basic rules:

Wet silk fabric: description, properties and features of caring for products made from velvety material

Suitable for hand washing only. The temperature should not exceed 30 degrees. Do not rub the material intensively.
Detergents should be mild. It is better to use liquid powder options. Stain removers with bleach are not suitable for caring for a crepe suit.
To preserve color, add 1 tbsp to the rinse water. l. vinegar.
The material is not squeezed out. It is shaken and dried in a horizontal position. You cannot dry things in the open sun; it is better to place the dryer in the shade.
Iron crepe suits while they are still damp. They are turned inside out and covered with a thin cloth on top. The iron temperature should not exceed 140 degrees.