Calico fabric: its characteristics and distinctive properties


What is calico

Calico is a cotton fabric with a cross-shaped weave of threads. Thanks to this weaving, the threads are located very close to each other, and the fabric is very dense. The material looks the same on both sides, the surface is smooth and matte.

Calico varies in density. The thickest fabric is 142 gsm. m is GOST calico, per 1 sq.cm of which there are at least 80 threads. Composition: 100% cotton threads. High-quality bed linen, curtains and even furniture upholstery are made from such dense material.

The second densest cotton fabric with a density of 125 g/sq.m., and the thinnest with a density of 100 to 65 g/sq.m. m. Summer clothes in the form of shorts and sundresses are sewn from such fabrics, and light tulle can be sewn from thin translucent fabric.


The photo clearly shows the texture of the fabric and the weave of the threads.

Scope of application of calico

You can sew many products from calico - bed linen, home textiles, children's clothing. The fabric is most in demand in the production of bed linen.

Calico sets are comfortable in winter and summer. They are easy to wash and iron. But such sets are not very durable and do not please with the variety of shades and patterns. For bed linen, calico of the highest density is used.

The material is distributed in medical institutions. It is used to make bed linen, gowns, surgical sheets, and bix napkins.

The following is sewn from calico fabric:

  • home textiles - curtains, tablecloths, table napkins, bedspreads;
  • linings for work clothes;
  • In industry, fabric is used for wiping parts and making filters.

Clothes made from calico material are not very common. The appearance of such clothes is unpretentious. The fabric is used to make robes, pajamas, and nightgowns. Popular fabric for sewing children's clothing.

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Manufacturers of calico

Material called calico is produced not only in Russia, but also abroad in some countries. And all these fabrics are different from each other.

Turkish. Türkiye is rightly famous for the production of cotton calico. Turkish fabric is very soft, light, bright colors, both plain and with patterns. The composition includes 100% cotton fibers, sometimes up to 15% polyester is added. The fabric retains its bright color for a long time, does not become covered with pills and does not fray.

Pakistani. It differs in high cost from Turkish and Ivanovo fabric. Pakistani fabric of high quality, light, breathable, consists of 80% cotton and 20% synthetics. The addition of polyester makes the material softer and less prone to wrinkles, and also extends its service life.

Ivanovskaya. It pleases customers not only with good quality, but also with a pleasant affordable price. Ivanovo calico is very dense, wear-resistant and has a rich color palette. In the city of Ivanovo, calico of various types is produced: plain-dyed, patterned, bleached and gray.

What is the popularity of calico for the production of bed linen?

A significant part of the calico produced in the world is used for making bedding. Matte lightweight textiles have fairly thick threads, so the structure is more stable than satin or chintz.

The cross-shaped texture includes only cotton, which is why it primarily attracts linen manufacturers. Environmental friendliness, excellent breathability, high consumer properties, durability - an excellent set for purchasing bed sets.

The choice is based on density - the material is produced in the range from 52 to 146 threads per cm, but the quality also depends on the spinning. Thin threads provide higher density.

ATTENTION! To sew bedding sets according to GOST requirements, a narrow range of density indicators from 120 g/m² to 142 g/m² is recommended. If the fabric has a specific gravity below 120 g/m², after a few washes, gaps in the weave will appear - a sign of wear. The characteristics are indicated on the marking tag.

The choice between durability and price is easy to make: a difference of 200-300 rubles and a service life 3-4 times longer offer high-quality underwear with a high performance of about 140 g/m².

If harsh calico is used in furniture and shoe production or work clothes are sewn after monochromatic dyeing, bleached textiles are used for clothing and linen. Modern domestic and foreign companies produce printed and plain-dyed fabrics in the range of 125 - 146 g/m². They are used to make sheets, pillowcases, duvet covers, diapers, and clothing for medical personnel. Different roll widths allow you to effectively use the material with virtually no waste:

Width, cm Calico type Purpose
80 Bleached Kids clothes
90 Severe, narrow range Technical range
150 Printed and plain dyed Bed linen
166 Harsh Special clothing
220 Printed, bleached, monochrome Euro or double bedding sets

Thanks to the width of 150 and 220 cm, seamless natural sheets and duvet covers with a variety of printed decor, plain and trendy white sets with embroidery and other decorative trims are produced from calico.

Types of calico

Basically, calico is divided into types according to the color it has.

Harsh calico. The densest matter. It is not painted or bleached at all, and has a pleasant soft milky or even creamy tint. Calico calico is suitable for sewing furniture covers, storage bags and special clothing, and is also used for various household needs.


Severe calico

Bleached calico. Bleached calico differs significantly in density from harsh calico; it is softer because the initial threads for its production become thinner during bleaching. Suitable for sewing bed linen, covers for translucent dresses.


Bleached calico

Plain-dyed calico. In terms of quality and density, it is the same bleached calico painted in one color. It is often used as dress calico, as well as for sewing men's shirts and bed linen.


Plain material is used when sewing bed linen and summer clothes

Printed calico. The printed and printed design on the fabric is well fixed thanks to thermal printing. There are a wide variety of designs on fabric: floral arrangements, abstract patterns, polka dots, stripes, checkered patterns and others. Density can be high, medium, or lowest.


Calico with printed (printed) pattern

What is calico fabric? Composition and description

According to Russian GOST standards, the composition of calico is 100% cotton. But in China and Pakistan, the addition of polyester thread is allowed. It should not exceed 15%. Therefore, when buying fabric, pay attention to the country of origin.

This will also be calico, because it is a way of weaving fairly thick threads that are clearly visible on the canvas. Although such weaving can also be in synthetic fabric. But natural cotton is in great demand.

This material is durable and practical. Ideal for household use.

Types and characteristics

There are 4 types of calico: gray, bleached, plain-dyed and printed.

  • The densest is the harshest. This is an undyed and unbleached fabric. Used for sewing workwear or furniture upholstery. Has a pleasant creamy tint.
  • Bleached linen is more delicate. This is bedding fabric.
  • Plain-dyed - material painted in one color tone. Its structure is similar to bleached. She sews tablecloths, table towels and bedding sets from it.
  • Printed calico is the most beautiful of all types of this fabric. It has a bright color pattern. This material makes beautiful bedding and children's clothing.

Advantages and disadvantages of fabric

Although the fabric is natural, one cannot fail to note its obvious advantages and existing disadvantages.

pros

  • The fabric perfectly allows air to pass through, allowing the body to breathe, which is typical of all natural fabrics.
  • Although the fibers of the fabric are located tightly to each other, the material is able to absorb moisture.
  • The products do not wear out and do not lose their color brightness or shape even after several hundred washes.
  • The products are easy to wash and iron.
  • The cheap price makes calico fabric accessible.
  • It is not electrified, which adds comfort when wearing things.

Minuses

  • Possible appearance of pellets on the surface of the fabric. This usually happens on the thinnest calico.
  • Color fading is possible when direct sunlight hits the fabric.
  • Calico is a fabric that is rough and hard to the touch, due to the density of the fibers and the way they are interwoven.

Does calico fabric shrink after washing? Yes, the material can shrink slightly, up to 10% of the entire piece of fabric. Therefore, it is worth buying material with a reserve and soaking it in warm water before cutting the product.

Severe calico

The production of unbleached calico is a set of complex technological stages. But, despite the difficulties, calico is one of the most in demand on the market. The popularity is explained by significant advantages and methods of application.

Application

Calico fabric is purchased by representatives of companies that deal with:

  1. Manufacturing of covers for sports equipment and travel equipment. The covers are lightweight, durable covers do not wrinkle, protect well from dirt and dust, and can be cleaned without problems.

Covers for sports equipment

  1. Production of mattress covers. Products made from harsh calico hold well, do not slip, and allow air to pass through. Suitable for the production of covers for orthopedic mattresses.
  2. Shoe industry. Absorbs and evaporates moisture. The fabric here is ideal as an inner lining.
  3. Sewing specialized uniforms and work gloves. Products made from harsh calico fabric are “not afraid” of chemicals, allow air to pass through, retain heat, do not provoke allergies, and are easy to care for;


Work gloves

  1. Production of bags and souvenir bags. A print or company logo can be easily applied to the product. The fabric holds the dye well. Sturdy bags can withstand quite a large load, wash and iron well.
  2. For the production of technical bags. Fabric can be used to create bags for money, postal shipments, storage of bulk products, and collection of geological samples.
  3. Furniture industry. Due to its wear resistance and high level of strength, calico calico is used for rough upholstery of spring blocks, as well as as cushioning parts for upholstered furniture.
  4. Manufacturing of suspended ceilings. The fabric, light and dense in structure, is easy to sew and install. The fabric is not afraid of dampness and does not rot. Calico ceilings will last more than 25 years.
  5. Garment industry. Double-sided fabric allows air to pass through and is used for sewing suit applicators.


Stretch ceilings using fabric

Advantages

Severe calico has an unattractive appearance, but it has many advantages:

  • Resistant to rotting and abrasion.
  • Absence of any deformation during operation due to high density.
  • Slight shrinkage when wet.
  • Long service life - from 20 years.
  • Absorbs water well.
  • The material washes well from all types of dirt.
  • The fabric dries quickly and is easy to iron.
  • Wide scope of application.
  • Affordable price on the market in comparison with analogues.

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Lightweight fabric product

  • The same density on the front and back sides, which contributes to less wear.
  • Calico is an eco-fabric, the creation of which does not harm nature.
  • Light weight, given the high density of the material.
  • Warms in cold weather and prevents overheating in hot weather.
  • One of the most durable cotton fabrics.
  • Does not accumulate static electricity.

Note! Calico calico also has negative aspects that buyers do not like. These include hardness, lack of smoothness, shine and the formation of pellets.

Areas of use

Various products are made from calico, but mainly these are bedding sets for both adults and children. Pillowcases, sheets and duvet covers are very bright, beautiful, and most importantly, last a long time. Printed calico with children's designs decorates children's beds in kindergartens and summer camps.

When choosing bed linen from calico or satin, it is worth remembering that satin differs significantly from calico fabric in texture and the way the threads are intertwined. Satin sheets are much softer and more delicate, and their surface is shiny, not matte.

The variety of colors makes it possible to sew curtains in a modern, Provence and Scandinavian style from thick and even translucent fine knit.

The use of calico in home textiles is not limited to this. Elegant tablecloths for dining tables, napkins and formal chair covers are often sewn either to order or in mass production.

Casual summer clothing made from this material is very light, breathable and does not allow you to sweat. For girls these are sundresses, blouses, for men shirts and even shorts. Dress calico is often produced specifically for sewing women's clothing, and it differs from the usual one in its pattern and light shiny coating.

A separate niche for the use of calico is occupied by tailoring special clothing for doctors, laboratory workers, and factories. Here we use white and plain-dyed calico. The fabric has gained popularity in this area due to its aesthetic appearance, rich colors, hypoallergenicity, environmental friendliness and durability in use.

Where is calico used?

Application covers various fields of activity:

  1. Industry: technical calico is used for packaging, work clothes, filters, sewing waste is used for rags;
  2. Medicine: white and monochrome overalls that can be sterilized, dressings;
  3. Children's bleached calico: diapers, vests, clothes for newborns and any age groups, mainly with white earth decoration;
  4. Home textiles: from curtains, towels to seamless bed linen. The 220 cm wide fabric allows you to sew bedding sets for double beds without sewing in the middle.
  5. Clothes for adults: summer assortment, dressing gowns, nightgowns and pajamas, shirts have monochrome coloring or a variety of printed prints on a white or colored background.

The main feature of calico is its weaving, which provides air access to the skin - the main requirement of a hot climate. This quality is ideal for children, given the complete environmental safety of the cotton composition.

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Care

And in conclusion, we will answer the question: how to wash calico and what other subtleties are there in caring for it? We’ll answer right away that there are no special tricks or difficulties in this. You just need to follow some tips, thanks to which calico products will retain their color and texture.

  • Items made from cotton fabric should be washed at a temperature of 40-60 degrees. At higher temperatures, the fabric may be difficult to iron and the color may change.
  • Wring in the washing machine at medium speed to make it easier to smooth out creases after drying.
  • It is better to dry the products in the fresh air so that the smell of the washing powder disappears well. Can be dried in a dryer.
  • You can iron with a hot iron. If the fabric is dry and the creases are difficult to smooth out, then use the “steam” function or a hand steamer.
  • When storing laundry in a closet, you can give it your favorite scent by placing a bar of soap next to the stack directly on the shelf.

Classifier OKPD 2

Like any goods, certain types of calico have their own codes in OKPD 2 (the All-Russian Product Classifier).

This is necessary to comply with customs requirements when importing or exporting services or products abroad and beyond. OKPD 2 code allows you to quickly confirm the product’s compliance with GOST. Thus, processing the relevant documents at customs is 2 times faster. Generally accepted rules apply throughout the Russian Federation and beyond.


Classifier OKPD 2

Codes and names according to OKPD 2 are presented in the table:

ProductSection nameOKPD code 2
Calico bleachedOther materials and products for technical purposes, not included in other groups13.96.16.190
Harsh calicoOther materials and products for technical purposes, not included in other groups13.96.16.192

Calico fabric has been one of the most popular in the production of goods for several decades. The natural composition, as well as various characteristics depending on the type, allow it to be used for a wide variety of purposes.

Reviews

Marina, housewife: As an experienced housewife, I can confidently and even guarantee to recommend bed linen made from calico. The fabric behaves very well after washing and is very pleasant to the body.

Olga, seamstress: It’s a pleasure to sew from calico, be it bedding or everyday clothes. The fabric does not fray, does not slip, feels comfortable in the hands and can be treated with any treatment.

Masha, laboratory assistant at a dairy factory: I, as a laboratory assistant, and other workers in the workshop wear a uniform made of calico. It is very comfortable to wear this uniform all day long, it is easy to wash and lasts a long time.

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