Acetate fabric called acetate silk: production, characteristics, properties

What is acetate?

The name "acetate" comes from the word "vinegar", because this fiber is obtained by treating cellulose with acetic acid salts, resulting in the formation of the substance "cellulose acetate".
It was first obtained at the end of the 19th century from cotton wool, and for a long time did not find practical use. In 1909, this substance began to be used for the manufacture of photographic and film films, and only at the beginning of the First World War a method for producing acetate from cellulose was developed in Great Britain. This significantly reduced the cost of its production, which at that time was focused primarily on military purposes. Acetate was part of fire-resistant varnishes used to coat airplanes, was used as an insulating material, was added to natural silk, and was used to make waterproof materials. The material now has many technical applications, from eyeglass frames to armoring rocket fuel tanks.

However, its use for making clothes was hampered by the fact that acetate can only be colored with the help of special dyes. After their invention, acetate silk became widespread both as an independent material and as a component in fabrics of mixed composition.

History of creation

In Great Britain at the beginning of the 19th century. two brothers Henry and Camille Dreyfus invented acetate yarn. At the very beginning, this fabric was used for sewing clothes, as well as for the manufacture of various household products and even for the military. After many centuries, the scientific experts of the Dreyfus company updated the technology, introduced their own developments and innovations, and thus acetate fabric began to be produced in the form of luxurious shiny threads, very reminiscent of silk.

It should be noted that sewing clothes and things from acetate was not easy, since textile companies had difficulty finding the right dye. Later, when it was possible to develop and find a production technology, this fabric gained popularity all over the world as a self-sufficient material, and as a component that can be added to some mixed fabrics.

Interestingly, the name “acetate” itself has Latin roots. “acetum”, which literally translates as vinegar and this is not surprising, since in order to make acetate cellulose acetate is needed, for this purpose the cellulose is exposed to acetic acid.

What is it made of, characteristics

Do-it-yourself wood concrete blocks
The composition of the material is waste cotton or wood pulp. They are acetylated completely or partially. And because of this, it is considered safe for the environment.

The fabric is described as similar to natural silk. Shines and shimmers, pleasant to the touch. It holds folds and pleating better than silk. They cannot be distinguished by appearance. Smooth and glides easily. Features of triacetate:

• use of complex patterns;
• combining several shades in one piece of material;
• creating an ombre effect, sharp or smooth transitions.

triacetat-1 triacetat-2

Positive properties of matter:

• Resistance to environmental factors, including ultraviolet radiation. Things do not fade in the sun and look like new for a long time.
• Dirt resistant - the material is easy to wash. Contaminants are not absorbed deeply. He doesn't shed or shrink.
• It drapes well, allowing you to make folds of any kind.
• Does not cause allergies or irritation. A pleasant feeling of perfect smoothness on the skin.
• Elastic and resilient. When dry it stretches well.
• Wear resistance, strength. Resistant to deformation.
• Low price for linen that looks no different from silk.
• Fungus, mold and insects are not interested in this material. Moths will not eat a triacetate dress.

triacetat-3 triacetat-4

Despite its apparent advantages, triacetate has significant disadvantages. This explains its low cost. Negative qualities:

Poorly absorbs water, absorbs less than 6% of liquid. Because of this, there is discomfort when wearing. Poor thermoregulation. Combined with low hygroscopicity, it is unpleasant to wear such clothes in hot weather. Does not allow air to pass through. In such clothes, the skin does not breathe and does not receive enough oxygen. When wet, strength decreases by more than half

After washing, things should be dried carefully, avoiding stress. Triacetate - a fabric that accumulates static electricity

Matter becomes highly electrified. Does not withstand the action of acetone, some acids and alkalis. May stick to the iron and melt at high temperatures.

Read about: elastane: a fiber that adds elasticity to fabric.

Due to significant disadvantages, these fibers are not always used to create fabric in their pure form. They are mixed with linen, cotton, wool, and silk. Sometimes combined with synthetic fibers. Wool blend yarn with the addition of triacetate does not form pilling and does not shrink. Blended fabrics have all the positive properties of the fibers they are made of.

For coloring, you have to use special dyes that do not damage this material. Despite the fact that the fabric is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and does not deteriorate from it, it transmits most of the sun's rays through itself.

How to distinguish triacetate from real silk

A few simple ways:

• Set fire to a piece of fabric. Natural silk will give off the smell of burnt hair. The artificial one melts and does not have that smell.
• The natural material heats up, taking on the temperature of the skin. If you apply triacetate fiber to your body, it will remain cold.
• If you crumple and smooth a piece of fabric, the natural material will quickly smooth out. The chemical will not return to its original state.

The material is quite new; it was put into widespread production only in the last century.

Basic properties of fibers

What kind of material is acetate? These fibers are resistant to chlorine, white spirit and higher alcohols. In lower alcohols they swell slightly and collapse in mineral alkalis.

Quality and physical characteristics of the thread:

• density - 8.3-11.1 tex;
• strength - 10-14 cN/tex;
• elongation - 20-40%;
• elasticity - 3-4 GPa.

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Important! Acetate fiber is completely destroyed - at a temperature of 1400 C.

Artificial silk threads are not susceptible to bacteria and insects, are slightly hygroscopic and do not wrinkle, quickly wear out and become electrified. They are superior in elasticity to copper-ammonium and other types. A cord with a cross-section of 1 cm² can withstand a load of 10 tons. During heat treatment, acetate fiber products can form lasses and creases.

Acetic Acid and Acetates

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When the negatively-charged acetate anion combines with a positively charged cation, the resulting compound is called an acetate. The simplest of these compounds is hydrogen acetate, which is commonly called acetic acid. The systematic name of acetic acid is ethanoate, but the name acetic acid is preferred by the IUPAC. Other important acetates are acetate of lead (or sugar of lead), chromium(II) acetate, and aluminum acetate. Most transition metal acetates are colorless salts that are highly soluble in water. At one time, lead acetate was used as a (toxic) sweetener. Aluminum acetate is used in dyeing. Potassium acetate is a diuretic.

Most acetic acid produced by the chemical industry is used to prepare acetates. Acetates, in turn, are primarily used to make polymers. Nearly half of acetic acid production goes to preparing vinyl acetate, which is used to make polyvinyl alcohol, an ingredient in paint. Another fraction of acetic acid is used to make cellulose acetate, which is used to make fibers for the textile industry and acetate discs in the audio industry. In biology, acetates occur naturally for use in biosynthesis of more complex organic molecules. For example, bonding two carbons from acetate to a fatty acid produces a more complex hydrocarbon.

Cellulose triacetate: applications in other fields

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Since 1952, this substance has been the main component in the manufacture of film and photographic films, magnetic tapes. Currently, it is also used in the production of X-ray films. This material is characterized by dimensional stability, low moisture absorption, and gas permeability. Some companies use the substance in coatings for sunglasses.

The saponification product of cellulose triacetate is also widely used in industry. It is used in the manufacture of plastics (etrols) and artificial fibers. A distinctive feature of this substance is the possibility of introducing more diverse types of plasticizers compared to cellulose triacetate.

In the paint and varnish industry, this compound is added to varnishes for better film formation. According to X-ray diffraction patterns and the study of the IR spectrum of the substance, the use of purified cellulose triacetate syrups makes it possible to increase the physical and mechanical properties of films by 20%.

Source

Esters

acetate esters have the general formula CHCOR, where R is an organyl group. Esters are the dominant forms of acetate on the market. Unlike acetate salts, acetate esters are often liquid, lipophilic, and sometimes volatile. They are popular because they have innocuous, often sweet aromas, they are inexpensive, and they usually have low toxicity.

Almost half of acetic acid production is consumed in the production of vinyl acetate, a precursor to polyvinyl alcohol, which is a component of many paints. The second largest use of acetic acid is in the production of cellulose acetate. In fact, "acetate" is slang for cellulose acetate, which is used in the production of fibers or a variety of products, such as acetate discs used in audio record production. Cellulose acetate can be found in many household products. Many industrial solvents are acetates, including methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, ethylhexyl acetate. Butyl acetate is a flavor used in food products.

Positive traits

It’s worth starting with the fact that the cost of such fabric was and remains lower than for natural materials, which is due to the specifics of production. But what is acetate like in use?

• It’s not for nothing that acetate is called acetate silk, because it feels very soft and pleasant to the touch, despite its cheapness.
• Acetate fiber has low hygroscopicity, and triacetyl cellulose fiber can even be hydrophobic.
• Acetate is twice as elastic as regular cellulose, so fabric made from it practically does not wrinkle. Some triacetylcellulose fabrics do not require ironing at all and do not form creases even after prolonged clenching in a fist.
• Perhaps acetate fabric is not as pleasant to the body as real silk, but its hypoallergenicity is beyond doubt. In addition, it does not attract the attention of pests such as moths and does not become infected with mold, which only benefits manufacturers of household items and clothing.
• In addition to its softness, acetate resembles silk in its lightness. This characteristic, coupled with low hygroscopicity, gives another bonus: the fabric dries extremely quickly after washing.
• This fabric practically does not fade when exposed to sunlight, and special dyes that are incompatible with other types of materials are used to dye it.

By the way

Triacetyl cellulose produces a material that holds creases perfectly even after repeated washing. It is often used to create pleated skirts, the folds of which would be a pain to iron out every time.

Flaws

Does acetate fiber have any disadvantages? Yes, but at the time of the peak of popularity they were not significant enough to refuse to use the technology.

• Unlike synthetics, acetate fiber always has a characteristic shine: it is almost impossible to change the finish of the fabric during production and achieve dullness.
• This fabric is not very resistant to high temperatures, and at one time there were quite a few acetate blouses burned through with an iron. But more advanced modern synthetic fabrics have the same drawback, don’t they?
• The same applies to solvents: if you drop an alkali solution onto such a fabric, the drop will corrode it, ruining the product. But we don’t use solvents in our blouses every day.
• This fabric is quite electrified, which can be especially unpleasant when purchasing acetate bed linen.
• If you decide to sew something from acetate silk, be aware that it frays very much, and this makes it much more difficult for inexperienced craftswomen to work with it.
• The wear resistance of acetate leaves much to be desired. No, it will not tear under light load, but it lags significantly behind modern synthetics in this regard.

By the way

Acetate is used to make not only clothing and interior design elements, but also electrical insulation and even cigarette filters. There is also a staple fiber, similar to padding polyester, that can be used as a filler.

That is, a brief description of acetate fiber could sound like this: cheap, lightweight, easy to use, and, judging by the popularity of the fabric in the 50s and 60s, this was exactly the kind of material that the post-war Soviet Union lacked.

Areas of use

Their cellulose fibers produce several types of silk fabrics:

• viscose silk is a good quality imitation. Depending on the weaving technology, almost the entire range of traditional silks can be produced (satin, chiffon, gauze, organza, crepe, etc.);
• acetate silk is cellulose (mainly waste from the woodworking industry in the form of wood chips) treated with acetic acid. It wrinkles less, holds wrinkles, and does not deform when wet. At the same time, it does not absorb moisture and is electrified. In recent years, the material has been losing popularity;
• cupra – copper-ammonia fibers. In the technological cycle, copper sulfate and ammonia are used at the xanthate dissolution stage. This feature of the technology makes it possible to bring cupra as close as possible to its natural counterpart, making it more breathable, durable and elastic. The disadvantage of the fabric is its high price;
• Modal is a fabric made from eucalyptus cellulose. Possesses the bactericidal properties of the original tree. Used to produce high-quality expensive bed linen;
• Lyocell is a fabric that is practically no different from natural fabric. The price is high.

Artificial silk has found recognition and widespread use. It is used in sewing a wide variety of products.

• Bed linen made of artificial silk has an excellent appearance, while the price of the set is several times lower than that of a similar set made of natural fabric.
• All kinds of clothing - you can find attractive and practical blouses, scarves, stoles, scarves, and children's clothing on sale. Dresses made of artificial silk are especially in demand.
• Artificial silk underwear, elegant and very feminine dressing gowns are an extremely popular option; you can use this fabric to make a stylish and elegant set at a very reasonable price.
• Interior decoration - bedspreads and even carpets made of artificial silk are successfully complemented by curtains made of the same material.

The most common polymer of the carbohydrate glucose is cellulose. In this lesson you can get to know it in more detail. Learn about its physical and chemical properties. Also study the production of artificial polymers, such as silk acetate, nitrate, smokeless powder.

I. Physical properties

This substance is white, tasteless and odorless, insoluble in water, and has a fibrous structure. Dissolves in an ammonia solution of copper (II) hydroxide - Schweitzer's reagent.

Video experiment: “Dissolving cellulose in an ammonia solution of copper (II) hydroxide”

II. Being in nature

Cellulose was discovered and described by the French chemist Anselme Payen in 1838.

This biopolymer has great mechanical strength and acts as a supporting material for plants, forming the wall of plant cells. Cellulose is found in large quantities in wood tissue (40-55%), flax fibers (60-85%) and cotton (95-98%). The main component of the membrane of plant cells. It is formed in plants during the process of photosynthesis.

Wood consists of 50% cellulose, and cotton, flax, and hemp are almost pure cellulose.

Chitin (an analogue of cellulose) is the main component of the exoskeleton of arthropods and other invertebrates, as well as in the cell walls of fungi and bacteria.

III. Structure

Consists of β-glucose residues

Illustration. Cellulose structure

Illustration. Cellulose molecule fragment

IV. Receipt

By industrial method, cellulose is produced by boiling wood chips at pulp mills that are part of industrial complexes (mills). Based on the type of reagents used, the following methods of pulp cooking are distinguished:

• Acidic: Sulfite . The cooking solution contains sulfurous acid and its salt, for example sodium hydrosulfite. This method is used to obtain cellulose from low-resin wood species: spruce, fir.

The technical cellulose obtained after cooking contains various impurities: lignin, hemicelluloses. If cellulose is intended for chemical processing (for example, to produce artificial fibers), then it is subjected to refining - treatment with a cold or hot alkali solution to remove hemicelluloses.

To remove residual lignin and make the pulp white, it is bleached. Traditional chlorine bleaching in the 20th century included two steps:

• chlorine treatment - to destroy lignin macromolecules;
• alkali treatment - to extract the resulting products of lignin destruction.

V. Application

Cellulose is used in the production of paper, artificial fibers, films, plastics, paints and varnishes, smokeless powder, explosives, solid rocket fuel, for the production of hydrolytic alcohol, etc.

• Production of acetate silk - artificial fiber, plexiglass, non-flammable film from cellulose acetate.
• Preparation of smokeless gunpowder from triacetyl cellulose (pyroxylin).
• Preparation of collodion (thick film for medicine) and celluloid (production of films, toys) from cellulose diacetyl.
• Production of threads, ropes, paper.
• Production of glucose, ethyl alcohol (for rubber production).

VI. Cellulose derivatives

The most important cellulose derivatives include:

• methylcellulose (cellulose methyl ethers) of the general formula

[C6H7O2(OH)3-x(OCH3)x]n (x = 1, 2 or 3);

• cellulose acetate (cellulose triacetate) – an ester of cellulose and acetic acid

[C6H7O2(OCOCH3)3]n

• nitrocellulose (cellulose nitrates) – cellulose nitrates:

[C6H7O2(OH)3-x(ONO2)x]n (x = 1, 2 or 3).

VII. Chemical properties

1. Hydrolysis

(C6H10O5)n + nH2O t,H2SO4 → nC6H12O6 glucose

Hydrolysis proceeds in stages:

(C6H10O5)n → (C6H10O5)m → xC12H22O11 → n C6H12O6 (note, m

starch dextrins maltose glucose

Video experiment: “Acid hydrolysis of cellulose”

2. Esterification reactions

Cellulose is a polyhydric alcohol; there are three hydroxyl groups per unit cell of the polymer. In this regard, cellulose is characterized by esterification reactions (formation of esters). Reactions with nitric acid and acetic anhydride are of greatest practical importance. Cellulose does not produce a “silver mirror” reaction.

1. Nitration:

(C6H7O2(OH)3)n + 3nHNO3 H2SO4(conc.)→ (C6H7O2(ONO2)3)n + 3nH2O

pyroxylin

Video experience: “Preparation and properties of nitrocellulose”

Fully esterified fiber is known as gunpowder, which, after proper processing, turns into smokeless gunpowder. Depending on the nitration conditions, cellulose dinitrate can be obtained, which in technology is called colloxylin. It is also used in the manufacture of gunpowder and solid rocket propellants. In addition, celluloid is made from colloxylin.

2. Interaction with acetic acid:

(C6H7O2(OH)3)n + 3nCH3COOH H2SO4(conc.)→ (C6H7O2(OCOCH3)3)n + 3nH2O

When cellulose reacts with acetic anhydride in the presence of acetic and sulfuric acids, triacetylcellulose is formed.

VII. Acetate fiber (cellulose acetate)

It first appeared on the world market in 1921, as a result of the work of American scientists and technologists under the leadership of Dreyfus.

The production is relatively harmless, characterized by the simplicity of the technological process and the availability of auxiliary materials.

Receipt. The raw material for producing acetate fiber is the remains of cotton fluff or refined wood cellulose, treated with acetic anhydrite and acetic acid: loose flakes of primary acetate are obtained. (“vinegar” is “acetum” in Latin, which is where the name “acetate” comes from)

To obtain secondary acetate, the primary acetate is saponified - a certain amount of water is added; The resulting white flakes are squeezed out, treated in a mixture of acetone and alcohol, pressed through dies, and the mixture is evaporated using warm air, causing the threads to harden. Acetate fabric is woven from these shiny threads. In combination with other threads, the fiber is used with silk, viscose, wool and other mixed fabrics.

Characteristic. Acetate fiber is slightly hygroscopic, absorbs little moisture, soft, light, thin, elastic, shiny, but at temperatures above 85 degrees it loses its shine, becomes highly electrified, loses very little strength when wet, but has a tendency to form creases when wet, is afraid high temperatures and at 140 degrees it is destroyed, not susceptible to mold, crumbles a lot, wrinkles a little, dries quickly (water drains), light-resistant.

Products should be ironed damp on the reverse side to avoid the formation of lasses; they cannot be cleaned with acetone, as this can dissolve the fabric.

Application. Currently, the production of acetate fibers and threads has sharply decreased due to low consumer demand.

In the 60s of the twentieth century, fabrics were used for women's dresses, blouses. summer suits

Triacetate fiber

Obtained from primary acetate by exposing it to a chemical composition.

The fiber is formed in the same way as acetate, but at low temperatures, which leads to some differences in their properties: it has low hygroscopicity, a whiter high melting and ironing temperature, it can be bleached and dyed more easily, does not require ironing, holds pleats well and corrugation even after washing, which improves the operation process; crumbles a lot.

Application: Fabrics are made for ties (due to low strength), tulle, bedspreads, lace, ruffled and pleated skirts, shirts

Animation: “Obtaining acetate fiber ”

Triacetylcellulose (or cellulose acetate) is a valuable product for the manufacture of flame retardant film and silk acetate. To do this, cellulose acetate is dissolved in a mixture of dichloromethane and ethanol, and this solution is forced through dies into a stream of warm air.

And the die itself schematically looks like this:

1 - spinning solution, 2 - spinneret, 3 - fibers.

The solvent evaporates and the streams of solution turn into the finest threads of acetate silk.

Speaking about the use of cellulose, one cannot help but say that a large amount of cellulose is consumed for the production of various papers. Paper is a thin layer of fiber fibers, sized and pressed on a special paper-making machine.

VIII. Exercise equipment

Trainer No. 1: “Starch and cellulose. Being in nature”

Simulator No. 2: “Comparison of the structure of starch and cellulose”

Simulator No. 3: “Chemical properties of starch and cellulose”

CORs

Video experiment: “Dissolving cellulose in an ammonia solution of copper (II) hydroxide”

Video experiment: “Acid hydrolysis of cellulose”

Video experience: “Preparation and properties of nitrocellulose”

Educational film: “Acetate fiber”

Animation: “ Obtaining acetate fiber”

Description of material

Acetate, a fabric whose photo is presented in the article, is quite popular and is classified as artificial. It is produced from cellulose acetate using the method of special processing of raw materials, which must be natural. This is how they differ from synthetic materials, which are produced by chemical synthesis.

Very often artificial silk is called acetate. The fabric has similar properties to this material: it has the same shiny surface. But silk, unlike acetate fabric, does not dissolve in acetone.

Acetate fabric fibers are dyed exclusively with special dyes. The latter, in turn, are unsuitable for other fibers. This is what makes it possible to obtain many different color effects on products made from a mixture of acetate and other types of fibers.

For the first time in the world, the above material was produced in Great Britain after the First World War. This production was undertaken by the company of Henry E. Camille Deifus, whose activities were primarily associated with the manufacture of non-flammable varnishes for fuselages and wings for aircraft. At the end of 1918, the company purchased new and improved equipment, which began to produce acetate fibers, unique at that time, in the form of threads of shiny natural silk.

This production attracted the interest of many scientists, so soon many different studies began to be carried out here. The results were not long in coming. After some time, the world received a new type of material - acetate fabric.

Manufacturing process

What is acetate silk? To obtain cellulose acetate (primary acetate), 98% fiber is used. It is produced at a temperature of 15 C by replacing hydrogen atoms. Acetic and sulfuric acids are used for this. The chemical formula is [C6H7O2(OH)3-x(OCH3)x]n. The initial composition is intended to extract fibers.

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Preparation of cellulose acetate

Acetate silk is obtained using this method:

• cellulose acetate is subjected to partial saponification with the addition of water, during which fragments of acetyl groups are cleaved off;
• sulfuric acid is used as a reaction accelerator;
• the resulting diacetylcellulose is called secondary acetate (includes 52–56% bound ethanoic acid). It has a fibrous structure and falls out of the composition in the form of white powder or flakes;
• secondary acetate undergoes squeezing, washing in water, stabilization (boiling with sulfuric acid) and drying.

Additional Information! Triacetate is a type of acetate fiber that is produced in a solution of alcohol and methylene chloride. It has high heat-resistant properties and can withstand temperatures up to 180 °C.

Acetate fiber production

Cellulose acetate dissolves in acetone and alcohol (85: 15). The output is a thick composition from which, after removing air bubbles and washing three times, fibers are formed. They solidify when the solvent evaporates and are used to form matter. Modifying additives that increase the quality of the thread.

Advantages and disadvantages of acetate silk

Like any other fabric, acetate has its advantages and disadvantages due to its properties and performance characteristics. The positive qualities of the material are as follows:

• Thanks to its elasticity, which is much higher than that of viscose, acetate products keep their shape well.
• The low thermal conductivity of the material allows you to retain heat.
• Acetate does not allow water to pass through easily, dries quickly, and is not susceptible to mold or insects.
• The smooth surface of acetate fabric prevents clothes from getting dirty quickly. Items made from acetate fiber are easy to wash and require almost no ironing.
• Light and thin material allows you to create beautiful draperies.
• Acetate fiber is easy to dye, which represents a wide field of activity for designers.

Among the negative characteristics inherent in acetate fibers, the following qualities can be distinguished:

• First of all, it is necessary to note the low strength and abrasion resistance, as a result of which artificial silk clothes quickly wear out with frequent washing and ironing.
• Products made from acetate accumulate an electrical charge.
• Acetate fabric does not absorb sweat well, so it is not entirely comfortable to be in it in hot weather.
• The material is destroyed upon contact with acids and alkalis and dissolves in acetone. When working with such substances in acetate clothing, you must be especially careful.
• The dyes used to apply designs to fabric are unstable and fade with prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
• Acetate fiber can “shrink” when washed, although recently many fabrics have been treated against shrinkage at the manufacturing stages.

Very often, it is these negative qualities of the material that repel the purchase of acetate products. In addition, some people with hypersensitivity to artificial materials may experience an allergic reaction.

How to distinguish from nylon and natural silk

How to distinguish acetate and natural silk? Although artificial silk resembles natural silk, it can be distinguished by knowing some subtleties.

• If you separate several threads and set them on fire, the natural ones will smell like burnt hair and will burn into ash, which can be easily rubbed between your fingers.
• Silk made from acetate, although not much, wrinkles if you squeeze the fabric in your fist and then straighten it, traces of folds will be visible on acetate, but on natural they will almost even out.
• Natural silk applied to the body will almost instantly equalize the temperature, acetate silk will remain cool longer, and, whatever one may say, the silkworm derivative is more pleasant to the touch.
• Nylon can be distinguished from acetate by touch; it is rougher, not as elastic and soft. After drying, nylon does not require ironing, but silk will have to be ironed at least slightly.
• Nylon has a coarser weave of threads; they do not fit so tightly to each other, so the surface is slightly rough, while silk is perfectly smooth and soft.
• When compressed, nylon produces a characteristic crunch, but acetate does not.
• Artificial silk is dissolved with acetone, and nylon with acid.

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Why are chemical analogues of natural material called silk?

The established designation - silk fabric, no longer confuses anyone, even if the buyer purchases a product that is the result of achievements in the chemical industry. But still, ideally, only material made from the protein threads of the cocoon of a silkworm caterpillar can be called this: mulberry or oak. And all other varieties would be more correctly called fakes, then there would be no need to add the prefix word “natural” to real silk.

If you approach the question of whether a particular material belongs to silk from a chemical perspective, then their difference in molecular structure immediately becomes obvious. And if you try to synthesize in a laboratory the protein structure of the vital product of a unique butterfly, then the output may be an identical material, the cost of which will be many times higher than the price of natural raw materials.

It is impossible to combine the entire range of this type of fabric and weaving. There are a huge number of varieties obtained using different weaving methods. For example, satin is characterized by satin weave, twill - twill, etc., but all these fabrics are classified as silk.

And yet why are all these species combined into one large group? Let's try to understand this issue step by step. In first place, you can put the aesthetic component based on visual perception (for example: I see - it’s made of silk). The second connection criterion can be the consumer’s tactile perception of a particular type (for example: to the touch I feel that this is a silk thing). The considered aspects are unifying factors for all segments of silk groups and related subgroups, regardless of what the material is made from.

Let's summarize. Color design, shine or dullness, elasticity, resilience, iridescence, hardness or softness and other characteristics will be the conditions that unite silk fabrics according to aesthetic criteria, that is, the unification should be sought in the consumer (associative) properties of this large group.

History of acetate fiber production

Acetate was created in England at the beginning of the twentieth century. The company, which first produced thin, shiny acetate fiber from purified cellulose and cotton fluff, in those years was engaged in the production of varnishes for the needs of aircraft construction. The random experiment was picked up by many manufacturers, and an amazing fabric came into the world, which, due to its extreme similarity to natural material, began to be called acetate silk. This is completely justified, because with natural material it is united by a characteristic shine, elasticity, extreme pleasantness to the touch and the fact that both materials cannot stand a hot iron.

The peak popularity of material came in the post-war years, when there was a huge need for beautiful, but cheap products. Since the 1960s, acetate began to be replaced by a variety of synthetics, and interest in it faded somewhat.

The modern world of textiles is quite loyal to this material. Strong, shiny fibers not only make up pure acetate fabrics, but are also contained in many fabrics, significantly improving the quality of products.

What is acetate fabric?

The appearance of acetate fabric resembles silk. The material is just as smooth and pleasant to the touch. Has a glossy surface. Due to this, it can be confused with silk fabric.

The fabric is thin and light. It is not translucent, but has a low density. The strength characteristics of textiles are low: they tear easily under strong stretching and physical impact.

The main feature of acetate fiber is that it easily dissolves in acetone. The material does not tolerate interactions well with other chemicals. Acetate fabric does not conduct heat well. Has moisture-proof properties. The air permeability of the material is quite low.

It is difficult to tell whether acetate fabric is natural or synthetic. It is more of a semi-synthetic fiber. It has a natural base treated with chemicals. With this processing, the original raw material is completely transformed.

Preparation of artificial acetate fiber:

1. Cellulose is treated with acetic acid (soaked). The result is a raw material called cellulose acetate.
2. Cellulose acetate is soaked in acetone until it is completely dissolved.
3. The resulting solution is heated, which leads to the evaporation of acetone.
4. The dissolved cellulose acetate is passed through a special filter. At the same time, the substance hardens into thin shiny threads.

The finished fibers are further processed and dyed. Then they are woven into fabric. Usually satin weaving is used. Special dyes are used to dye the fiber. They are not suitable for other fabrics.

The formula of acetate fiber looks like this - [C6H7O2(OH)(OCOCH3)2]n.

Cellulose acetate was first produced at the end of the 19th (according to some sources, at the beginning of the 20th) century in England. Initially, the raw materials were used for domestic and military purposes.

The fiber was later refined into modern acetate threads. The long-term use of the material was complicated by the fact that there was no suitable dye for it. When this problem was solved, clothes began to be made from the fabric.

Acetate fiber gained the greatest popularity in the post-war years. Back then, buyers wanted to see inexpensive but beautiful things on the shelves. Later, the demand for fabric began to decline due to the appearance of a large number of synthetic fabrics on the market.

The average price of a meter of acetate silk is 100 rubles. The cost varies depending on the country of origin and additives in the composition.

See what the fabric looks like:

Production Features

Silk production is a very labor-intensive process, so experiments have been carried out over the centuries to create a synthetic analogue. The first thoughts on this topic can be traced in the work of the famous English naturalist Robert Hooke, published back in 1667. A little later, Hooke's initiatives were further developed in the ideas of his French colleague René Reaumur. A century later, in 1842, the German inventor and manufacturer Ludwig Schwabe presented to the world a prototype of the first machine for the production of chemical thread. Another 13 years passed after this event, and a method for transforming mulberry cellulose using sulfuric and nitric acid was patented in England. Further experiments and practical developments have proven their worth in practice, leading to the fact that all types of silk fabrics produced today are almost 97% artificial or synthetic.

Artificial threads are made from cellulose compounds. Fibers from this natural, renewable source of raw materials are the most hygienic. Currently, there are three types of fibers made from high molecular weight cellulose, with different comparative characteristics:

1. Viscose.
2. Acetate.
3. Triacetate.

In addition to the above artificial types of fibers, there are also synthetic varieties: polyamide (for example, nylon, anide, epan) and polyester (for example, lavsan). Their main disadvantages are considered to be low hygroscopicity and increased electrification.

Some information about color

High temperature is necessary for the acetone to completely evaporate from the mixture. After this, the resulting threads are cooled, their surface is coated with oil to prevent the formation of a static charge, and then wound onto a bobbin. Up to 600 meters of thread are formed in a minute. Subsequently, it requires virtually no processing, with the exception of twisting to produce thicker fibers.

What about the coloring? In most cases, the dye is introduced at the production stage, so that the thread of the required shade is wound onto the bobbin. We have already said that acetate fiber is very poorly dyed with standard means, and therefore, currently 90% of fabrics are made from threads made from spinning mixtures with specified qualities.

Nowadays, thousands of varieties of special disperse paints have been created. They allow you to obtain not just colored fabric, but real masterpieces with an amazing iridescent color. This impression is created due to the fact that the paint does not stick to the surface of the threads, as is the case with the same viscose fabric, but is part of the fabric itself.

If necessary, white dyes are used, resulting in almost flawless snow-white fabrics. Since acetate fiber is very resistant to UV rays and is very easy to wash, the durability of such a fabric is many times greater than that of cotton or other natural fabric.

Areas of application of the substance by humans

There are several types of sodium acetates: technical and food grade. The first variety is used in the production of chemical heating pads and heaters, as an integral part of the “hot ice” mixture. In the construction industry, sodium acetates provide an anti-frost effect for concrete and are used in the construction of monolithic structures.

The textile industry uses the substance for dyeing fabrics and tanning leather. The additive is also used in the field of photography and electroplating, in the production of coloring products, hygiene products, and in the chemical industry.

In its structure, technical sodium acetate is a trihydrate of sodium salt of acetic acid, which has the appearance of flakes or pieces of various shapes.

In general, people are familiar with two types of E262 additive:

• sodium acetate E262i;
• sodium diacetate E262ii.

Substances have different chemical formulas, but differ little from each other in their properties.

In food production, edible sodium acetate has found application, mainly in the following foods:

• in bakery products (to protect raw materials from “potato disease” bacteria);
• in canned vegetables and fruits (to improve the taste of the product);
• in potato chips (to give them a more pleasant taste and aroma).

In the medical industry, the additive is used in the manufacture of diuretics and other drugs.

How fabric is made

The starting raw material is cellulose - a polysaccharide that is part of plant cells; it is obtained from wood. This is the difference between such material and synthetic ones. To avoid confusion, labeling rules prohibit calling the fiber rayon, but require it to be labeled as viscose or acetate. The production process is as follows:

• The crushed cellulose is exposed to alkali (caustic soda) and pressed.
• Pre-ripening. The resulting substance is crushed and left for some time to polymerize.
• Preparation of xanthate. The raw materials are placed in sealed containers filled with nitrogen.
• Dissolution of xanthate. The output is transparent viscous viscose, which is left to age.
• Liquid viscose is pressed through dies into a precipitation machine with a mixture of acids. Fibers are formed.
• The fibers are spun into threads. Textile factories use them to produce fabrics.
• An important step is the precipitation bath. The composition of the acids in it and the temperature completely determine the properties of the fiber and future fabrics. Manufacturers keep these parameters in the strictest confidence.

Fabric care

Acetate fibers have dirt-repellent properties and practically do not wrinkle. Therefore, caring for them is quite simple. In this case, the fabric wears out quickly. To extend its service life, it is important to follow the basic rules.

Washing and drying

Washing and drying rules:

1. Washing water should not be higher than 30 degrees. At higher temperatures, shrinkage occurs.
2. Hand wash preferred. It is possible to use a washing machine on a delicate cycle.
3. You cannot actively rub the material. It is gently squeezed in water with the product, and then rinsed thoroughly.
4. Aggressive washing powders will ruin the fabric. It is recommended to use delicate liquid products.
5. Do not use regular stain removers to remove stains. Instead, hydrogen peroxide is used to remove serious contaminants.
6. The fabric cannot be wrung out by hand or in a washing machine.
7. After washing, acetate clothes are hung on hangers, allowed to drain and dry, or laid out horizontally on a towel.
8. The acetate is dried in the shade. It fades in the sun.

How to iron material

Acetate is ironed with a steamer at a temperature not exceeding 170 degrees. You need to move the iron quickly over the fabric to avoid deformation. Gauze is placed between the material and the canvas.

Chemical and physical properties of silk fabrics

Silk composition

Silk thread is similar in chemical composition to human hair or animal fur: it consists of 97% protein, the rest is wax and fats. Its composition is as follows:

• 18 amino acids;
• 2% potassium and sodium;
• 3% fat and wax components;
• 40% sericin;
• 80% fibroin.

Natural silk is very expensive: not every person can afford a product made from this material. Therefore, factories have now appeared that produce artificial fabrics - cupro silk (from viscose) and synthetic silk. Externally, synthetics differ little from natural fabric, but do not have its wear resistance, strength and hygiene.

Important! The strength of silk decreases when exposed to temperatures above 110°C or ultraviolet rays. The fabric becomes fragile and can tear from minor physical impacts.

When exposed to the sun for a long time (more than 200 hours), the strength of silk is reduced by half.

Properties of silk

Natural silk has gained popularity due to its amazing properties. The features of silk fabric are:

1. High density, wear resistance and resistance to vinegar and alcohol. Only a concentrated solution of acid or alkali can damage the material.
2. Smoothness, soft shine and bright shimmer. Silk pleasantly adheres to the skin, gently flows along the body and softly shines, making products made from it look royally luxurious.
3. Bactericidal and hypoallergenic properties. Silk prevents the growth of bacteria, absorbs unpleasant odors and does not cause allergies. This is why it is often used to make clothing and bedding.
4. The creaseability of the material depends on the type. Plain weave silk wrinkles easily. But lycra silk or jacquard silk hardly wrinkles.
5. The fabric is not subject to combustion: when a spark hits a silk product, it begins to smolder, spreading the smell of burnt feathers.

Fabric characteristics

For fans of silk clothing, other properties of the material are also important:

• The fabric can be dyed well in any shade due to the high hygroscopicity of the material:
• perfectly passes and absorbs water, does not electrify, stretches well;
• has average shrinkage: after washing, silk fabric always shrinks and can lose up to 5% of its original length.

Important! Silk is used for more than just clothing. Beautiful souvenirs are made from it, it is used in embroidery, knitting and felting, and crepe de Chine, foulard or toile are an excellent basis for paintings and scarves using the batik technique.

Advantages of acetate fabric

• elasticity, due to which this product keeps its shape perfectly
• retains heat perfectly, so in the winter you won’t feel the cold, acetate will provide maximum comfort
• has an antibacterial effect and is not sensitive to various insects and pathogenic bacteria
• hydrophobicity
• dries quickly enough after washing
• acetate fabric is not susceptible to contamination and does not accumulate dust
• Easily machine washable and not demanding when ironing
• Lightweight material drapes well
• easy and simple to dye, which is why it is one of the favorite fabrics among designers and fashion designers around the world

Composition and properties

Not synthetic, not natural, so which one? Artificial. Acetate material - what is it: artificially created from natural raw materials - plant cell walls - cellulose. More precisely, from cellulose treated with acetic anhydrite and called cellulose acetate. From the latter, long, shiny fibers are formed in a rather complex way, which are used to make acetate fabrics. (chemical formula of acetate fiber: )

Acetate fabrics have a number of remarkable qualities:

• High elasticity, twice that of viscose, but slightly less than natural silk.
• Resistance to fungal infections and microorganisms. Acetate fabric does not mold and is not damaged by insects.
• Excellent draping ability due to the special flexibility and volume of the material.
• Plasticity, giving low creasing to products.
• Soft and pleasant to the touch.
• Smooth, does not attract dust. The products are easy to clean from most contaminants.
• Hypoallergenic. The material does not cause allergic reactions or irritation.
• Keeps the shape of the products perfectly.
• Does not fade in the sun.
• Dries quickly after washing.
• Affordable price.

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However, when choosing acetate products or working with the material, you should be aware of its following qualities.

Selectivity to dyes. Dyes suitable for other fabrics are not accepted by acetate. It requires certain compounds. High thermoplasticity

At a temperature of 177°C, the fabric becomes sticky, so ironing should be done with extreme caution. Not resistant to chemicals

Even a weak alkali destroys matter, but acetone can completely dissolve it. Low hygroscopicity. Acetate does not absorb moisture well. Acetate fabric may stain from sweat. Not abrasion resistant. Acetate is a fabric that is highly electrified. It transmits ultraviolet light, but weakens with prolonged exposure to the sun.

Features of care

Acetate fabric is resistant to high temperatures and active mechanical stress. It can be washed in cool water by hand or on a gentle cycle in the washing machine.

Products must not be twisted or dried in a centrifuge. They simply need to be hung up after washing to drain water. Iron things with great care: with an iron with a humidifier at temperatures up to 150°C, through a thin cloth or gauze.

Acetate fibers are initially white, so the fabrics do not need to be bleached. If you still want to refresh the appearance of the product, you can do this by rinsing it in a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide.

Acetate fabric: eleven pros and eight cons. Positive qualities exist equally with negative ones. However, everything depends on the correct use of the material. In the right place and at the right time, inexpensive but extremely attractive products look quite relevant and worthy.

© 2021 textiletrend.ru

What is triacetate made of?

The method for obtaining fibers is reflected in the title. The material is obtained by acetylation of cellulose waste.

Triacetate

The method is convenient because it allows you to use any cellulose waste: cotton or pre-prepared wood pulp. The backbone of the polymer is linked glucose units in the β-form. In the molecules of monomeric residues, three groups remain free, which can be acetylated to form esters.

• With complete acetylation, triacetylcellulose is formed, which is usually called triacetate or primary acetate. The content of acetyl residues in the complete acylation product reaches 61.5%.
• Triacetate can be subjected to partial cleavage - saponification, in which a certain amount of acetic acid residues is released. The resulting product is called secondary cellulose acetate. In this case, the content of acid residues in the polymer molecule reaches 56% of the total mass.

Both compounds of acetylated cellulose are used to produce fibrous materials, varnishes, membranes, and films.

Modified polymer fibers are spun from a solution using a dry process. In this case, the solution is passed through the dies. The emerging jets are blown with hot air. The solvent evaporates and the polymer fiber hardens.